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holiday
 Seder
Savers
Passover, the holiday in remembrance of
Jewish freedom from slavery, is a time for family
and reflection. But, if the pressure of ridding your house
of chametz (yeast foods) and getting those Seder dishes ready
before sundown is making you kvetch, rest easy and try these places.
Artie's (pictured,
2290 Broadway, 212-579-5959) offers a "Send-a-Seder" option
that delivers all the heat and serve fixin's to your home
overnight.
@SQC (270 Columbus Avenue, 212-579-0100)
provides a delicious way to enjoy unleavened foods with Scott
Campbell's homemade matzo ball soup and gefilte fish with
horseradish and beets.
In keeping with the spirit of the holiday,
Capsouto Fr�res (451 Washington Street, 212-966-4900)
is hosting a communal, non-Kosher Seder that will donate proceeds
of the $110 per person feast to the Joint
Distribution Committee. "There is always a great demand
for a restaurant Seder," says owner Albert Capsouto,
"...and we feel wonderful about raising money for a good
cause." Mazel Tov! — MARTINE DARDIGNAC
the
underground gourmet
 Think
Small
Last summer, Sara
Jenkins started hanging out at a bar called Patio,
the open-air annex of Mugsy's
Chow Chow, and as soon as she saw the adjacent restaurant,
she wanted to cook there. "Four tables, four appetizers,
four entr�es — it's a chef's fantasy." Four tables is an
exaggeration, but not by much; 26 seats are still far
fewer than Jenkins was facing at Il
Buco and I Coppi
before that. And Jenkins saw Mugsy's one-person open kitchen
as her opportunity to break out of the Italian-chef role
she'd been channeled into, not only through her past positions
but through genetics. Her mother, food scholar Nancy Harmon
Jenkins, isn't just an established authority on the cooking
of Tuscany, where Sara and her brother Nico, pictured,
grew up — she wrote the book on it (Flavors of Tuscany).
Two weeks ago, after a few months when Patio's sliding
door started to resemble more of a revolving door for
chefs, Sara took over the range at Mugsy's, which will
henceforth be known as Patio Dining, where she's
cooking a daily changing menu, forging her own seasonally
inspired identity with dishes like cauliflower soup, spring
rabbit stew, and pan-seared duck breast with fennel three
ways (roasted, shaved, and pollen-dusted). — ROB PATRONITE
Patio Dining
31 Second Avenue
212-460-9171
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Ask Gael
I'm a dedicated X-ray. I
dare not eat dessert.
Who am
I, an all-too-human non-sylph, to tempt you? All you Upper
East Side wraiths, munching your grassy lunch at Orsay,
are missing something. Life is more than escarole. Not
only is Orsay turning out its signature tartares — the classic
beef with capers is fabulous — but I'm bowled over by the
rose-blush perfection of salmon steak on Moroccan couscous
and my guy's steak-frites. And now even dessert is worth
a splurge. Fresh from Mexico City, just 26, without much
English, Jos� Manuel Hern�ndez walked in one day carrying
scrapbooks of sweets, clippings, recipes. He wowed the
partners here in an audition of French classics. That's
what he does — cr�pes Suzettes, profiteroles, luscious tarte
Tatin, fabulous cookies, madeleines, chocolates. And every
day, a fantasy of his own, like this Jacques Torres-esque
chocolate globe balanced on a tower of ganache. Loosen
up, Ms. Discipline. Share mine.
Orsay
1057 Lexington Avenue, at 75th Street
212-517-6400 |
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