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| Week
of April 8, 2002 |
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preview
Branch
Location
First Chateau, then Industry (food), now
Butter: Every new loungy restaurant seems to be going
for a bark-and-twigs design scheme, though we don't know if
it's inspired more by Ralph Lauren Country or by backwoods
survivalism. Decide for yourself on April 23, when the tunneled
space that used to be Belgo reopens with a back-to-nature
motif, every conceivable surface clad in red cedar, walnut,
and silver birch; love seats carved out of logs; moleskin
Hollywood booths; and a gallery of artworks intended to raise
money for charity. In an attempt to maintain that precarious
balance between serious menu and serious scene, the owners,
a pair of veteran party promoters, teamed up with a chef from
Chanterelle (Keith Harry,
pictured), whose contemporary log-cabin cuisine features dishes
like saut�ed calf's liver with coconut vinegar, and grilled
turbot with sake beurre blanc.
Butter
415 Lafayette Street
212-253-2828
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best
of the week
Taste
of the Lower East Side on April 18
Twenty-five downtown restaurants will offer
sample bites at this fund-raiser for youth programs at Grand
Street Settlement. Participants include 71
Clinton Fresh Food, Le Tableau, Lansky
Lounge & Grill, and Paladar. (April 18 at the
Orensanz Center; call 212-674-1740, ext. 211.)
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Ask
Gael
Is Paris unfair to our homeboy
Jean-Georges?
Critics
filleted Market, a smartly clubby (and not too
expensive) feeding station at Christie's off the Champs
�lys�es spun off by -- in their words -- "the Franco --
New Yorkais" Vongerichten. Still, tout Paris piled in,
whipping up fierce heat. By March, when I arrive, the
reportedly "arrogant" crew has felt the lashing and emerged
so friendly and welcoming, I can't believe I'm in Paris.
Yes, it's a menu of recycled favorites from Mercer
Kitchen and Vong
(as some complain), just the kind of fusion Paris is suddenly
gaga about. Though I find the famous tuna-wasabi pizza
wimpy, I am impressed by a worldly tuna tartare, the stylish
scallop seviche, and luscious hamachi in a lemony olive-oil
sheen. Pleased, too, by pigeon on noodle pancake, and
lamb shank in a puddle of green curry, I hurry back with
Parisian friends. Starters still score, but a motor-oil
sauce overwhelms the splendid duck steak, and bubbling
soy foam is lethal to my guy's faux filet. Amazingly,
cheesecake and an adventure in green apples and basil
olive oil are thrilling enough to send us home on a high.
Market
15 Avenue Matignon, Paris
33-1-56-43-40-90
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Bites & Buzz Archive
Week of March 18
Cabaret at Caf� Sabarsky; the latest in couture food
Week of March 18
Mugsy's Patio dining; Gael indulges at Orsay
Week of March 11
The chessesteak Czar; Greek Orthodox Lent at Estiatorio Milos; a female sushi chef?; Gael delivers the verdict on jury duty dining
and
more ...
Photos: Patrik Rytikangas
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