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Restaurants |
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Week
of May 6, 2002 |
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Mother's
little helpers: Breakfast-in-bed basics at the Minnow's
"Little Buddy" cooking classes. |
roundup
Mother's Day Dining
There is a certain type of Mom for whom
Mother's Day means one thing and one thing only: brunch at
Tavern-on-the-Green,
the mother of all Mother's Day venues. Call her the Traditional
Mom or the Old-Fashioned Mom. She will accept no substitutes,
and if you haven't made your reservation by now, you'll witness
her sudden transformation into the Guilt-Tripping Mom. On
the bright side, there's a
Mother's Day menu for every personality type.
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tasting
Cold Comfort
The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory opened
last fall with a streamlined assortment of classic, all-natural
flavors, a spectacular location in a twenties fireboat house
on the Brooklyn waterfront, and the financial backing of the
River Caf� next door, where, unbeknownst to many, pastry chef
Ellen Sternau concocts all the factory's toppings and syrups.
The only thing missing, until recently, was hot fudge, a glaring
omission for certain sundae enthusiasts. "It's one of the
hardest things to get right," says perfectionist ice-cream
maker Mark Thompson, who tasted the store-bought competition
and charged Sternau with improving on it. She rose to the
challenge, using high-grade Michel Cluizel chocolate with
a 72 percent cacao content for deep, dark fudge that's worth
the wait -- and a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge.
Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory
Fulton Ferry Landing, Brooklyn
718-246-3963
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best of the week
Tribeca
Festeja at Pico
To coincide with the
Tribeca Film Festival (which runs through May 12),
Pico restaurant will be offering this special prix
fixe lunch and dinner menu. Hungry cineasts can expect Portuguese-inflected
fare like roasted suckling pig, chilled almond-and-grape soup,
and a frozen banana souffl�.
Pico
349 Greenwich Street
212-343-0700
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object of desire
Tempesta in a Tomato
Arezzo's wood-oven-roasted rack
of Colorado lamb would be the perfect, simple springtime dish
if only that delinquent season would grace us with its presence.
Chef Margherita Aloi rubs the lamb with thyme, sage, and rosemary
and serves the fine, flavorful pink meat with pea shoots and
a vine-ripe tomato, blanched and stuffed with a luscious mixture
of goat cheese and an extra-large-grain couscous that she
calls tempesta ("hail" in Italian), perhaps in an attempt
to summon some precipitation and do something about the drought.
Arezzo
46 West 22nd Street
212-206-0555
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new
menu
Happy Meals
The owners of Double
Happiness and Happy Ending specialize in converting
quasi-notorious neighborhood landmarks -- a Little Italy "social
club" in the first case, a Chinatown "men's health club" in
the second -- into stylishly low-key lounges. They also own
the popular restaurant Wyanoka, where chef-partner Chris Santos
cooks aggressively flavored Asian- and Latino-accented food
that's a perfect match for the Lower East Side locale. He's
just introduced a delectable bar-food menu at Happy Ending,
where the staff seems to be adjusting to the idea of serving
toothsome barbecued-duck-confit empanadas, assembly-required
Thai beef-lettuce wraps, and a lobster club with citrus-saffron
rouille (pictured) in addition to martinis and Sierra Nevadas.
"You want to start a tab?" asked our waitress, after we placed
our dinner order.
Happy Ending
302 Broome Street
212-334-9676
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Ask
Gael
How about a new address for
Chinese in midtown?
Cinnabar
puzzles me. How sexy it is, with shadowy light, bare black
tables, and tangles of curly willow branches lit from
below. I'm wild for the shrimp-watercress dumplings and
"flattened" duck from the barbecue. It's a kick watching
the wok-play in the open kitchen. And the candied-ginger
cooler is my new favorite cocktail. Here is lobster Cantonese,
revived from our childhood. Razor clams in black-bean
sauce and sensational Dungeness crab with ginger are musts.
The lyrically complex Ma Po bean curd isn't Szechuan-torrid,
but it's delicious. In fact, the place is retro, avant-garde,
Hong Kong (let us wallow in our duck-salad mayo), and
an homage to Shun Lee, all at once. Right now, the kitchen
is scoring two out of three triumphs. But already the
peppery thrill of the wonton chips has been tamed. Bad
sign. And that post-millennial elevator music must go.
Cinnabar
235 West 56th Street
212-399-1100 |
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Bites & Buzz Archive
Week of April
29
The China Fun heir; bar dining at D'Artagnan; the first annual sake summit;
can Compass find the way?
Week of April
22
Tribeca's Bubby-que; '44' gets some South Beach sizzle; Batali's new book;
Gael's d�j� vu at Washington Park
Week of April
15
NYC's new water pressure; Is Blue Smoke the way to hog heaven?
and
more ...
Photos: From top to bottom- Carina Salvi (2); Kenneth
Chen (2); Patrik Rytikangas
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