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Restaurants |
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Week of July 15, 2002 |
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shopping
Australian for Beef
We're not sure if the Australian-raised cattle that are the source for
Lobel's new Wagyu beef (the same breed responsible for those $300-per-pound
Kobe steaks) have been massaged daily and fed a steady diet of Foster's
lager, but we can say that they must have been well looked after. At a
recent Wagyu strip-steak taste test, the words "foie-gras-ish," "sushilike,"
and, yes, "like butter" were bandied about freely to describe the highly
marbled, exquisitely tender, and flavorful beef. The hand-cut steaks and
roasts (variously priced, but generally about $100 per pound) are available
at .www.lobels.com and shipped fresh overnight, or by special order at Lobel's
(1096 Madison Avenue) or its brand-new
Hamptons satellite, the butcher counter at East Hampton's Red Horse Market.
Lobel's
1096 Madison Avenue, at 82nd Street
212-737-1372
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takeout
Hutt Two
Thiru
Kumar spent three years navigating the city bureaucracy, filling
out reams of paperwork, and custom-building a cart to his
exacting specifications before he finally opened NY Dosas,
the vegetarian, chili-spiked alternative to stale pretzels
and waterlogged Sabrett's. As chef at Flushing's Dosa Hutt,
the Sri Lankan-born Kumar mastered the art of cooking dosas,
idly, and uthappam, the South Indian cr�pes and pancakes made
from fermented rice and lentil flours and served with coconut
chutney and incendiary sambal. Now he spends his mornings
in a Queens kitchen preparing the batters and chopping vegetables
before claiming his hard-won turf on the south side of Washington
Square Park, near the intersection of Sullivan and West 4th
Streets. Everything is cooked to order and takes time, but
with 24-hour notice, Kumar (reachable at 917-710-2092) can
accommodate large groups of ravenous vegetarians craving his
ten kinds of dosas, Singapore fried vegetable noodles, or
a single can of guava juice. And nothing costs more than $5.
NY Dosas
South side of Washington
Square Park
N
ear the intersection of Sullivan and West 4th
Streets
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shopping
Duty Calls
"I looked around and saw all these skinny girls who only eat lettuceyou
know the ones," says Carol Rollo, "and I decided I would introduce them to
the real world." That world, as Rollo sees it, revolves around real foodin particular, the kind of fat-be-damned Italian family recipes she and her
partner Christine Bellini have been collecting over the years and serving at
dinner parties. So nine months ago, Rollo came out of retirement after a
long career in the designer-clothing business, and she and Bellini opened
Two Italian Girls, a Southampton wholesale kitchen that provides Manhattan
stores like Dean & DeLuca, Jefferson Market, and Citarella, as well as East
Hampton's Red Horse Market, with terrific fully baked and ready-to-heat
torte, the savory Italian pies variously stuffed with cheese, potatoes, and
vegetables. Recently, they've expanded the line to include delicious
crescent-shaped cookies, thin squarish pizzettes (pictured) that resemble
giant Pop-Tarts made with polenta to give them a super-crunchy crust, and
addictive, fennel-flavored grissini (bread sticks) as skinny as those girls
they're trying to reform.
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Ask
Gael
Where do you take Paul Bocuse
for lunch?
When the mythic toque of Lyon hits our town, he's got Peter Luger on his
mind. I am eager to expand his universe. I lead the Great Bocuse and a
huddle of Michelin-starry pals (Marc Haeberlin of Auberge de l'Ill and Alain
Ducasse among them) to Michael Jordan's The Steak House N.Y.C., where I've
never cut into a hunk of cow that was less than great. Sure enough, the
French troop is properly impressed by the majestic sweep of Grand Central,
the garlicky bread in gorgonzola fondue (easy to copy, they agree), lush
Caesar salads and chowder, the hash browns, and creamed spinach. A mountain
of outsize onion rings quickly vanishes. I order my classic New York sirloin
rare (what else?). But for my guests, it's giant, fatty rib eyes all round
-- ros�. What? With some weird Gallic myopia they insist: medium. Well, I do
believe Paul is pleased. His cronies stop to snap themselves with executive
chef David Walzog, and exit with signed menus.
Michael Jordan's The Steak House N.Y.C.
23 Vanderbilt Avenue, in Grand Central Station
212-655-2300
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Bites & Buzz Archive
Week of July 8
San Domenico's new tramezzinos; Bastille Day at Restarant Provence; Clinton St. Baking Company introduces dinner; Gael finds anonmynity at Cucina & Co.
Week of July 1
The first-ever City Bakery State Fair; seriously sophisticated gelato; an independence day feast; Gael examines the allure of Da Silvano Cantinetta
Week of June 17
Manhattan clambakes; Turkish dining at Beyoglu; a chilled peach drink; and Gael Greene on classic dishes from Naples at Il Gattopardo.
and
more ...
Photos: From top to bottom- Kenneth Chen, Carina Salvi (2nd & 3rd)
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