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EDITED BY ROB PATRONITE
AND ROBIN RAISFELD |
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| Week
of January 6, 2003 |
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object of desire
 Bacon
Brother
You might think of Rick Moonen's BLT—available on RM's
new prix fixe lunch menu —as a modest piscatory equivalent
to Daniel Boulud's fabled DB burger. Moonen luxes up the coffee-shop
classic to pleasing effect with thickish slabs of slightly
sweet and smoky Perona Farms salmon bacon, mizuna, plum-tomato
slices, and dill-caper a�oli, all neatly packaged between
slices of whole-grain bread and served with a side salad of
perfectly cubed cucumbers. Now, if only some enterprising
star chef would tackle egg-salad on rye. . . .
RM
33 East 60th Street
212-319-3800
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best of the week
Winter Restaurant Week 2003
Clear your midday calendar, and grab those reservations fast:
This year’s $20.03 lunches and $30.03 dinners are available
January 27 through 31. Participants range from Nobu
to Brasserie 81/2 to
Smith & Wollensky.
For more information visit, www.nycvisit.com
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 happening
Buy a Cake, Win a Plate
Everyone's favorite patissier, Francois Payard, is giving
away fine china! That's right, through January 11, the confectionary
wizard will be making Galette des Rois (a classic French almond
cream baked in puff pastry and adorned with a crown). One
of these "King's Cakes" will contain a hidden golden
key. The lucky finder wins a 6-piece set of Bernardaud china
in the pattern of his or her choosing. Cakes serve four, six,
eight, and ten people and run $18 and $42.
Payard Patisserie
1032 Lexington Ave
212-717-5252
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Ask
Gael
 I
hear the Sultan of Swagger at Beyoglu has gone.
With a chorus of raves drawing crowds for sublime Turkish
meze at Beyoglu, its creator, the irascible Orhan
Yegen, disappeared. "Too rough on the customers," his
boss, Yulian Betulovici, charged. Left with Yegen's
amiable crew and a bustling success in a totally foreign
cuisine, and having relocated to the ground-floor corner
that housed his own Ci Vediamo, Betulovici boldly risked
opening a fish spot upstairs, and stumbled. So now,
that quieter aerie is dedicated to Beyoglu's overflow
and private parties. So far, fans are finding the same
sprightly tarama, hummus and eggplant pur�e, wonderful
octopus and stuffed grape leaves, and more, all served
with rounds of warm, bubbly Turkish bread. Along with
the meaty doner kebab, new entr�es include chicken and
daily seafood specials -- braised tuna or striped bass
grilled whole with herbs and a last-minute olive-oil
drizzle. Yegen's irrepressible arrogance is gone, but
the new guy's got Cary Grant's dimpled chin.
Beyoglu
1431 Third Avenue, at 81st Street
212-650-0850
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Bites & Buzz Archive
Week of December 31
Chef Collichio hones his craftbar; the applejack cobbler martini; a chocolate
garden in SoHo; birthday season at Trattoria Dell�Arte
Week of December
16
Olives get sugar-coated; dinner is jazzed at Daniel; holy holiday fishfests;
Christmas cake to keep; low-decibel dining Upstairs at '21.'
Week of December
9
Spoonbread is holiday chic; Payard for preschoolers; Jacques Torres expands
to Brooklyn demands; cookbooks to give and get now.
and
more ...
Photos (from top to bottom): Bruce
Katz and Kenneth Chen.
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