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Restaurants |
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EDITED BY ROB PATRONITE
AND ROBIN RAISFELD |
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Week
of January 13, 2003 |
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the underground gourmet
Demand and Supply
It’s been a tough year for Wall Street, but
downtown workers got an unexpected Christmas bonus
almost as valuable (and rare) as a healthy 401(k): a
serene spot to grab a delicious, low-priced lunch.
Financier Patisserie, the elegant new
pastry-shop annex of the Poulakakos family’s
Hanover Square complexwhich already includes
Harry’s and Bayard’s and is soon to add an
enormous Irish pub called Ulyssesopened last
month, to the delight of viennoiserie-deprived locals.
And even though pastry chef Eric Bédoucha’s
Danish, tarts, and seasonal specialties like
exquisitely flaky galettes des Rois make a tantalizing
impression, the kitchen is slowly building an equally
enticing savory menu. The soups du jour, like
vegetable-packed chicken barley or smoky lentil with
ham, are served in deep ceramic bowls. Terrific
chicken panini with goat cheese and marinated
artichoke hearts come on crispy Tom Cat Bakery
ciabatta. And if that garnish of mixed greens from
Satur Farms, the North Fork sideline of Bayard’s
executive chef Eberhard Müller, whets your
appetite for farm-fresh produce, buy a whole Satur
salad bowl, sold with Müller’s Asian or
white-truffle dressing.
Financier Patisserie
62 Stone Street
212-344-5600
gotham food
Breakfast for Dessert
Waiter, is that a Cocoa Puff in my soup?!? Mais oui! The city's
finest restaurants can't get enough of dessert cereals. Jean Georges's
baby-faced pastry chef, Johnny Iuzzini, tops his juniper-berry-chocolate
soup with chocolate-covered Cocoa Puffs, and Jean-Fran�ois Bonnet at Atelier
is caramelizing Rice Krispies with peanut-butter ice cream. Blue Fin's James
Distefano adds corn flakes to his banana tart. And Brasserie 8�'s Martin
Howard has concocted a fritteresque take on clubland culture: Special K
Holes.
Raison d'�tre: "Pastry chefs always look for new textures," says the
28-year-old Iuzzini. "Besides, I'm a big kid. I still eat Little Debbie's. I
eat so much sugar. Listen to how fast I talk!"
What if we can't wait until after dinner? Jacques Torres Chocolate
covers corn flakes with dark chocolate (718-875-9772). And at $5 a
quarter-pound, they're no more than a box of Count Chocula.
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shopping
Canned Peach
Any internationally renowned restaurant worth its salt
(or sauce) has to have a signature product these days,
to hawk to customers who can’t get enough of a
good thing. If you want to relive your Peter Luger
beefathon in the privacy of your home, you may do so
with a bottle of the restaurant’s proprietary
steak sauce. Do your chances of scoring a table at
Rao’s look slim? Buy a jar of their marinara at
D’Ag’s. And nostalgia aside, even
civilians get to take salamis home from Katz’s.
Now Cipriani deigns to bring its signature cocktail
out of its rarefied surroundings and into your
refrigerator with its new Bellini base, a lightly
carbonated peach soft drink available at its takeout
branch, Cipriani Le Specialità ($1.75). On
the rocks with vodka, gin, or rum, or mixed with white
wine or prosecco, the drink packs a surprisingly fresh
and fruity punch.
Cipriani Le Specialità
110 East 42nd Street
212-557-5088
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Ask
Gael
Washington Heights for dinner? Are you mad?
I go to the Cloisters to feed my head. Now that I know
what’s cooking up at Republi’K in
the name of Latino fusion, I can’t wait to
return. Chef Ricardo Cardona’s spicy
offeringdips tucked into a tricolore flower of
handmade chipsis our first clue that the show in
this spiffy space is grander than the neighborhood. A
trio of sensational seviches, nestled in ice,
compounds the pleasure. Grilled-shrimp salad with
fresh palm hearts and coconut crisps, and the fragrant
bisque with so many perfectly cooked sea creatures,
are starters big enough to be entrées. It takes
four of us to handle the parrillada (surf and turf for
two) with its triple tier of sides. Skirt steak,
sirloin, chorizo, chicken, lobster, octopus, and
head-on shrimpall are a marvel of careful
cooking. Upstairs, a lounge waits to be discovered.
And soon there’s to be lunch, spiced and priced
for the neighborhood.
Republi’K
114 Dyckman Street
212-304-1717
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Bites & Buzz Archive
Week of January 6
The BLT gets upscaled at RM; Beyoglu's Sultan of Swagger has gone.
Week of December 31
Chef Collichio hones his craftbar; the applejack cobbler martini; a chocolate
garden in SoHo; birthday season at Trattoria Dell�Arte
Week of December
16
Olives get sugar-coated; dinner is jazzed at Daniel; holy holiday fishfests;
Christmas cake to keep; low-decibel dining Upstairs at '21.'
and
more ...
Photos: Patrik Rytikangas, Kenneth Chen (2nd & 3rd).
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