preview
66
Tireless chef-entrepreneur Jean-Georges Vongerichten,
the Asia-obsessed Alsatian, has done French (nouvelle
and bistro), Vegas steakhouse, haute hotel food,
gourmet sandwiches, and his own riff on Thai fusion
(four times). Next week, he unleashes his
idiosyncratic take on Chinese food at 66, where
kitchen recruits from Hong Kong and Chinatown
collaborate on family-style platters that might look
more familiar than they tasteor cost. Think
Shanghai soup dumplings, sea-scallop shumai, and
sweet-and-sour fried red snapper with pine nuts, for
starters. The stark modern design is by Richard Meier;
the uniforms by Vivienne Tam. Fish tanks divide the
kitchen from the dining room, which is furnished with
Eames chairs and round resin tables, each with its
iconic lazy Susan. At lunch, the 44-foot-long communal
table becomes a dim sum and noodle bar. At night, we
boldly predict, it will be a scene.
241 Church Street
212-925-0202
· Cuisine: Chinese
Blue Ribbon Sushi
Now that brothers Eric and Bruce Bromberg have
established an outer-borough beachhead with their Blue
Ribbon Brooklyn, they’ve taken the inevitable
next step: cloning Blue Ribbon Sushi right next
door. The Park Slope spinoff, formerly Vaux, is bigger
and boxier than the Sullivan Street original, and
features a raw barsomething of a Blue Ribbon
signaturestocked with giant abalone, sea urchin,
and Alaska king crab. Partner Toshi Ueki oversees a
menu identical to Manhattan’s, from appetizers
like peppered lamb with red miso and soy sauce to
special maki rolls like the Blue Ribbon (half a
lobster, shiso, and black caviar).
278 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn
718-840-0408
· Cuisine: Japanese
Brasserie 360
With its light, airy décorall cheery yellow
walls, Art Deco ceiling fixtures, and amber
lightingBrasserie 360 seems like just the
thing for the heavily trafficked but somewhat dreary
intersection of Third Avenue and 60th Street. A new
staircase in the middle of the room connects the old
Yellowfingers space to the old Contrapunto space.
That’s big enough for two sizable talents:
Belgian-born Luc Dendievel (Bayard’s, Waterloo),
who goes classic brasserie downstairs with
saffron-mussel soup, braised veal cheeks, and a few
refinements like Chilean sea bass with fennel fondue;
upstairs belongs to Kazuo Yoshida, formerly of Jewel
Bako, and his sushi bar.
200 East 60th Street
212-688-8688
· Cuisine: French
Quercy
When Jean-François Fraysse opened the funky,
romantic La Lunchonette on Tenth Avenue fifteen years
ago, West Chelsea was uncharted restaurant territory.
The same can’t be said of Cobble Hill, Brooklyn,
home to more chefs than the Food Network, but this
week, Fraysse joins the Court Street fray with his
second bistro, Quercy, named for his native
region in southwestern France. Rather than go the
trendsetting route yet again, Fraysse has shrewdly
duplicated La Lunchonette’s menu (at a slight
Brooklyn discount), reprising proven crowd-pleasers
like mustard-slathered roast chicken with luxurious
potato gratin, sautéed calf’s liver with
balsamic vinegar, and top-notch tarte Tatin.
242 Court Street, Brooklyn
718-243-2151
· Cuisine: French
|