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Bill Devin Benefit at Fairway Steakhouse
Cheese hero Steven Jenkins hosts
this culinary happening, featuring high-end foodstuffs,
bottomless glasses of wine, and crackling foodie patter.
Profits from the sale of tickets ($100 each) will go
to the family of the late Bill Devin, pioneer of unsung
Catalan wines.
March 10 at 7:30.
Fairway Steakhouse
74th St. and Broadway
To reserve, call 917-862-6996
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OLA
Never trust a skinny chef—that’s
our motto. But we’ll make an exception for seviche
king Douglas Rodriguez. We haven’t seen him in
person lately, so we can’t attest to his svelteness,
but we hear he’s on a low-carb diet. He’s
sharing some of the secrets of his regimen at OLA,
his brightly designed new midtown restaurant, in a menu
that includes a “pure protein” section and
low-carb dishes indicated by asterisks, as well as signature
tapas and seviches from his former kitchens at Pipa
and Chicama. We’re
not giving up starch, but if you’re committed
to the Atkins plan, we can’t think of a better
way to go than Nuevo Latino meatballs in a spicy foie
gras sauce and crispy Cuban pork with oregano-lime mojo.
304 East 48th Street
212-759-0590
Re Sette
Before he became a restaurateur, Yagur Sheinman imported
gold jewelry and diamonds, so it makes perfect sense
that he’d choose a diamond-district locale for
his fine-dining debut. Re Sette’s vaguely
Gothic décor features elaborate candelabras and
a 26-foot-long “king’s table” on the
mezzanine (re sette is Italian for “seven
kings”). Chef Alessandro Sacchetti makes optimal
use of his wood-burning brick oven with fig-and-Gorgonzola
pizzas and Cornish game hens, and reprises his grandmother’s
Sunday sauce, a braised-meat gravy. A trio of special-events
promoters from the China Club hope to draw a late-night
crowd with downtown D.J.’s, but they’ll
have to compete with a singing waiter prone to impromptu
arias.
7 West 45th Street
212-221-7530
The Green Table
Unless they’re planning your wedding, caterers
tend to fly under the culinary radar. One way some of
the savvier firms combat anonymity is by opening a restaurant
where the public can sample their wares. Great Performances
spawned Mae Mae Café, Sage American Kitchen operates
Café St. Bart’s, and now the Cleaver Co.,
famous for its homey potpies and sustainable-agriculture
mind-set, has launched a café and wine bar adjacent
to its Chelsea Market catering kitchen. The Green
Table bills itself as New York’s only wine
bar featuring organic food and drinks, including popcorn
with ancho chili and orange salt, meat-loaf sandwiches,
and Pinkus pilsner from Germany. A dozen wines are served
by the elegant Spiegelau glass, and the menu—which
quotes high organic priestess Alice Waters’s “Eating
is a political act” manifesto—changes seasonally.
75 Ninth Avenue, at 15th Street
212-741-9174
Maria's Mexican Bistro
When it came to naming his new restaurant, Maria’s
Mexican Bistro, Nelson Nacipucha played it safe:
Both his mother and his mother-in-law happen to be Marias.
Along with prolific partner Armando Zumba—who
co-owns Park Slope’s popular Los Pollitos rotisserie
restaurants as well as Café Mexicana, a charming
new four-stool source for excellent tamales and Mexican
hot chocolate next door to Maria’s—Nacipucha’s
out to refine the Mexican dining experience and lead
Brooklynites out of taqueria territory and into Maria’s
relatively swank surroundings. The gently priced, not
strictly Mexican menu augments the familiar world of
guacamole, enchiladas, and fajitas with green mussels
steamed in a white-wine-chipotle broth, baked red snapper
with roasted red peppers, and three takes on paella.
Both moms should be proud.
669 Union Street, Park Slope,
Brooklyn
718-638-2344.
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Frozen
Assets
When Il Laboratorio del Gelato
opened on the Lower East Side last summer, ice-cream connoisseurs
from every Zip Code trekked to Orchard Street for scoops
of vibrantly flavored gelato and sorbet concocted by Jon
Snyder, the creator of the Ciao Bella brand. Since then,
the gelato’s worked its way onto dessert menus around
town (like Mary’s
Fish Camp and Pastis)
and finally, as of this week, into gourmet-store freezers.
Ten flavors, from the classic (vanilla, chocolate, and
strawberry) to the creative (toasted almond, white chocolate),
are available in snappy square eighteen-ounce tubs at
Citarella (1250
Sixth Ave. at 49th St. 212-332-1599), Grace’s Marketplace
(1237 Third Ave, 212-737-0600), and Tuller Premium Foods
(199 Court Street, Brooklyn; 718-222-9933).
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Ask Gael
Real
food, please. Make it a little French.
Funny how a restaurant that the critics kind of
like, or even love, shines for a while and then
fades from the radar. I remember hearing raves
for Django, but it’s far from my
beaten track. I never got there till last week,
when a foodnik pal said, “Let’s eat
French.” What a delicious surprise. Chef
Paul Zweben has the accent down pat. Except for
banquettes so low we look like toddlers at table,
the six of us, all notoriously fussy, are pleased.
I’m not sure when I’ve had a better
onion soup. A persnickety guest asks for her moules
less cooked and her frites more cooked. Done.
Fabulous frites. And we like the foie gras terrine
with toast, and moules gitanes, too—with
merguez sausage, sofrito, and saffron. Now everyone
is passing tastes back and forth (minor chaos),
but that means I can vouch for a fine bouillabaisse,
crusty skate on a preserved-lemon polenta cake,
and my guy’s steak au poivre—right
up there with his favorite at Balthazar.
Django
480 Lexington Avenue, at 46th Street
212-871-6600
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In the Archives
February
24, 2003
Bobby Flay takes up tapas at Bolo; Rocco DiSpirito ditches the steaks
at Tuscan; and Orhan Yegen, formerly of Beyoglu, pops up at Efendi.
February
17, 2003
P.J. Clarke's finally reopens; rice ball mania hits the city; the
debut of 36-92 and Parish & Co.; Gael goes Ouest.
Photos: Kenneth Chen (1 & 3), Carina Salvi (2 & 5), Ellie Miller.
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