openings
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Pampano
Plácido Domingo must be nibbling his way through
the Mexican-chef ranks. First he opened a Spanish
restaurant called Domingo and persuaded Rosa
Mexicano’s Josefina Howard to try her hand at
Iberian cuisine. Then he recruited cookbook author
Patricia Quintana, who installed an elegant, if
short-lived, all-Mexican menu. Now he’s teamed
up with Maya’s Richard Sandoval to transform the
skylit Turtle Bay duplex yet again, this time into the
coastal-Mexican seafood restaurant Pampano. The
interior has gone lighter and brighter, with a
multitude of bas-reliefs and a bar dispensing clams,
oysters, seviches, and the obligatory margaritas. With
dishes like serrano-chili-spiked smoked-marlin dip and
seared scallops with prickly-pear-and-baby-cactus
salad, Sandoval aims to elevate Mexican seafood to new
heights—or at least keep his finicky partner
culinarily content.
209 East 49th Street
212-751-4545
Mexican Sandwich Company
Everyone mourning the recent demise of Wyanoka and its
crispy-red-snapper tacos will be happy to learn that
chef Chris Santos (and said tacos) have resurfaced in
Park Slope, where he’s putting his own wildly
inventive spin on quesadillas at the Mexican
Sandwich Company. Triple-decked and stuffed with
elaborate combinations like wild plum and Brie with
double-smoked bacon and lavender-chili honey (or
customized to order), they come in six- and
twelve-inch versions that fit perfectly in
pizza-delivery boxes. And in a fanciful foray into
Paul Newman territory, Santos is bottling a line of
salsas, in newfangled flavors like
tomatillo-feta-and-corn.
322 Fifth Avenue, near 3rd
Street, Park Slope, Brooklyn
718-369-2058
Hacienda de
Argentina
As much set designers as restaurateurs, the prop-happy
partners behind Casa La Femme, Eros, and Tapas Lounge
have gone thoroughly gaucho at Hacienda de
Argentina, their rustic new steakhouse. To conjure
the proper pampas atmosphere, they’ve outfitted
the former Red Bar in dark woods and animal skins, and
concocted a meat lover’s menu of grass-fed beef,
empanadas, and Italian-Argentine hybrids like grilled
provolone and noquis (Southern Hemisphere gnocchi).
Mate, the indigenous, mildly stimulating tea sipped
from a communal gourd, helps set the South American
mood.
339 East 75th Street
212-472-5300
Heartland Brewery
With the opening of the fourth branch of the
Heartland Brewery brewpub chain in the spaces
once occupied by the old North Star Pub and Sloppy
Louie’s, owner Jon Bloostein has some pretty big
cups to fill. He’ll answer the challenge with
Heartland’s signature draft beers and an
abbreviated burgers-and-Buffalo-wings menu, not to
mention some new seafood additions like teriyaki
salmon and tequila shrimp. Not quite the shad-roe
omelettes at Louie’s that Joseph Mitchell made
famous, but such are the preferences of today’s
Wall Streeters and South Street Seaporters.
93 South
Street
646-572-2337
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Good Graces
The Tribeca restaurant-lounge Grace has always been
known more for its gleaming 40-foot mahogany bar and
the cocktails produced there than for its food, but
that could change: With the opening of Grace on the
Go, a sunny little Park Slope prepared-foods shop,
owner Fred McKibbin is hoping to find a more
appreciative outer-borough audience. Everything on the
eclectic comfort-food menu, from falafel to chicken
potpie, is made in Grace’s Manhattan kitchen and
shipped daily to Brooklyn, along with Sullivan Street
Bakery bread and Clinton St. Baking Company muffins.
For McKibbin’s pear martini, though, you still
have to go to the source.
Grace on the Go
352 Seventh Avenue, Park
Slope, Brooklyn
718-499-2019
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Ask Gael
What’s the dish on Rocco at Tuscan?
If your timing is right, you might catch the kitchen
Adonis of Union Pacific between celebrity-chef
detours, dashing across the vast stretch of
Tuscan to kiss the hand of an adoring blonde.
Rocco DiSpirito clearly enjoys showing off his
Campania heritage and his mama’s meatballs in
this costly Tuscan Steak rehab. And the kitchen gets
stronger every day. Our gourmand coven goes easy on
starters, just luscious fried artichokes and some
bruschetta—duck and black truffle and the
red-wine beef on the fabulous house-baked
bread—leaving room for thick pasta ropes of
handmade pinci, lushly gummy gnocchi in mascarpone, or
Thursday’s remarkable wild-mushroom risotto.
Elegant boiled veal, the special fried chicken, and a
wonderfully juicy veal chop are good for sharing,
better by far than too fatty, barely cuttable rib-eye.
Frozen caramel macchiato and apple tart with
wine-spiked gelato make a fine finale. Alas, the
service is a bizarre hash of super-professional,
comedy-shtick, and ditzy-Stepford-wife.
Tuscan
622 Third
Avenue, at 40th Street
212-404-1700
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In the Archives
March 17, 2003
Rice Avenue, Ivo & Lulu, Basso Est, The Carriage House; inventive scones at Podunk; Gael visits the Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club.
March 10, 2003
Molyvos's Lent pie; Kudo Beans, Flaco's Tacos & Tequila, Baldo Vino, Sage; Beacon's new Irish Sage cocktail; Gotham's hot white chocolate; tasting nirvana at Diwan.
March 3, 2003
Bill Devin Benefit at Fairway Steakhouse; OLA, The Green Table, Re Sette, and Maria's Mexican Bistro open; Gael visits Django.
Photos:Kenneth Chen (1, 4), Tina Rupp (2, 5), & Patrik Rytikangas (3, 6).
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