openings
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The Mermaid Inn
Danny Abrams and Jimmy Bradley’s new East
Village fish joint, The Mermaid Inn, is really
two restaurants in one. The cheery front room, with
its whitewashed ceiling, maps of Martha’s
Vineyard, and a framed 1939 menu from Boston’s
landmark Locke-Ober restaurant, is as true-blue New
England as a bowl of quahog chowder, while the funky,
candlelit back room is supposed to look like a
Ligurian taverna. Both share a menu that seems like
the work of a well-traveled Yankee sea captain who
took excellent food notes, then came home to open a
clam shack of his own—seviche, lobster risotto
balls, and Catalonian seafood stew sit alongside fried
oysters and fish chowder. Perhaps inspired by that
antique menu, which lists a bottle of Lafite for
$3.80, every bottle of wine is priced to move at a
shocking $15 above cost.
96 Second Avenue
212-674-5870
Ten Sushi
It’s taken Michael (Bao) Huynh two and a half
years to open Ten Sushi, but he’s kept
himself busy in the meantime. Architect by day, chef
by night, he built and opened Bao 111, his East
Village nouvelle-Vietnamese restaurant, then set to
work on the empty storefront across the street.
Although Huynh conceived the
Indochinese-by-way-of-Tokyo menu, he recruited two
chefs from Nobu London to run the kitchen, so besides
the usual raw-fish repertoire, there’s crispy
oysters with spicy tomato confit, seven-spice-roasted
teriyaki chicken, and succulent baby-lamb-chop
yakitori scented with kaffir-lime leaf.
116 Avenue C
212-505-9471
Rice to Riches
Is this an age of comfort-food specialists or what?
This hyper-designed Nolita storefront’s
specialty is rice pudding, and it’s available in
nineteen flavors by the cup or the 40-ounce container.
Plain vanilla is for purists; pineapple-basil is for
thrill-seekers.
37 Spring Street
212-274-0008
Scopello
Sleek and modern, with a distinct Sicilian accent,
this new ristorante is a welcome answer to the
perennial outer-borough question: Where to eat near
BAM? Comfortable banquettes, a spacious bar, and
uncommon offerings like
smoked-herring-and-blood-orange salad are already
pleasing the neighbors.
63 Lafayette Avenue, Fort Greene, Brooklyn
718-852-1100
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the underground gourmet |
Lights, Camera, Luncheon
With all the elaborate catering going on, it’s
hard to go hungry at a film set or a fashion shoot
(unless you’re a model, that is). It’s
rare, though, that mere mortals gain access to the
A-list craft-services table. Now even those of us not
quite ready for our close-ups can do weekday lunch at
The Restaurant at Splashlight Studios, the
in-house canteen at the Hell’s Kitchen
digital-photo studio. Deftly run by Creative Edge
Parties, the chic, sleek café is an incongruous
but culinarily welcome addition to the scruffy Javits
Center neighborhood. A tropical-fish tank, tabletops
made of resin-covered rocks, and Jonathan Adler
pillows (and serendipitously matching artwork) give
the premises a hip, modern look, and chef Christopher
Romali’s refined menu is just as polished. Not
to mention a bargain: Appetizers like
“reconstructed” deviled eggs and
coconut-curry rice cakes run $4 to $8, a duck-confit
sandwich with red-onion jam costs $10, and
not-so-small “small plates” like seared
scallops with green-pea purée and curry oil top
out at $16. And despite whatever’s going on in
the studios, you won’t feel like an interloper;
the sweetly solicitous service leaves no doubt that
you’re the one being catered to. ROBIN RAISFELD
The Restaurant at Splashlight Studios
535 West 35th
Street
646-536-9180
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previews |
Tequila Sunset
From the way the young and the culinarily restless
squeeze in to Dos Caminos every night, you’d
think they’d never seen made-to-order guacamole
and 150 brands of tequila before. The formula is
working so well that on April 9, ever-entrepreneurial
owner Stephen Hanson duplicates it (and the rest of
the menu) 26 blocks south at Dos Caminos Soho.
The new location, which won’t take reservations,
features sunset murals, pressed tin, and a 60-seat
patio. The new smoking section, perhaps?
Dos Caminos Soho
475 West
Broadway
212-277-4300
From Z to A
Undoubtedly expecting a different sort of crowd at
their new East Village digs, the owners of
Chelsea’s Le Zie (Italian for “the
aunts”) have named their Avenue A satellite, due
to open April 7, Le Zoccole. The name,
according to partner Francesco Antonucci, means
“easy women,” and also “wooden
shoes.” Whatever you call it, Le Zoccole has a
menu almost identical to Le Zie’s, and, thanks
to a two-level space nearly twice the size of the
original, a full bar featuring cicchetti, the Venetian
answer to bar snacks.
Le Zoccole
95 Avenue A
212-260-6660
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Ask Gael
Is Capitale an illusion or delusion of
grandeur?
What draws foodniks like me to Capitale is
Franklin Becker, a chef whose stylish food I loved at
Local. So trip past the lions at the door into 4,000
square feet of marble and gold leaf—and
that’s just the restaurant proper. Beyond, nooks
and the cavernous grand ballroom await partying
hordes. At an early tasting for friends, we like
silken yellowtail snapper escabèche in a tangy
vinaigrette, and the salad of shoots and roots with
baked ricotta, far better than peekytoe crab in
tortured rillette. And exquisitely steamed black sea
bass in a fragrant shiitake-and-sake nage trumps the
halibut. Becker is strongest when he’s not
reaching, though I actually liked sea scallops with
smoked pork belly just as much as straightaway lamb
with a wonderful vegetable pot-au-feu. Pastry chef
John Lee spins what he learned at Lutèce, La
Grenouille, and AZ into splendid desserts: Get a
vitamin C kick from chilled Meyer-lemon custard with
grapefruit salad, tangerine sorbet, and pink
peppercorns, or try chocolate soufflé with
s’mores and an egg cream. Then brace for the
check.
Capitale
130 Bowery
212-334-5500
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In the Archives
March 24, 2003
Pampano, Mexican Sandwich Company, Hacienda de Argentina, Heartland Brewery; Grace foods go to Brooklyn; Rocco DiSpirito's new Tuscan.
March 17, 2003
Rice Avenue, Ivo & Lulu, Basso Est, The Carriage House; inventive scones at Podunk; Gael visits the Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club.
March 10, 2003
Molyvos's Lent pie; Kudo Beans, Flaco's Tacos & Tequila, Baldo Vino, Sage; Beacon's new Irish Sage cocktail; Gotham's hot white chocolate; tasting nirvana at Diwan.
Photos:Kenneth Chen (1, 4), Tina Rupp (2, 5), & Patrik Rytikangas (3, 6).
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