openings
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Chennai Garden
For Pradeep Shinde, co-owner of the new Chennai
Garden, a successful restaurant has universal
appeal. “Nobody should say no,” he says,
and to that end, his kosher, meatless, mostly South
Indian menu appeals to vegetarians, Orthodox Jews, and
Muslims alike. So does lots of the Curry Hill
competition, but according to Shinde, they’re
all following in his trend-setting footsteps: He
claims to have launched the kosher-Indian trend at
Madras Mahal a decade ago. In colorful new digs on a
quiet side street, his kitchen’s turning out a
fresh, flavorful roster of dosai, uthappam, and
Punjabi and Gujarati curries, plus a $5.95 weekday
lunch buffet and $13.95 combination dinners.
129 East
27th Street
212-689-1999
Barking Dog
The third branch of this comfort-food chainlet
features the same canine paraphernalia as its
predecessors, but since it’s located in a hotel,
it also serves breakfast. Dog people and those who
love them can sit indoors or out, at a patio equipped
with rocking chairs, flower boxes, and a “dog
bar.”
50 East 34th Street
212-871-3900
Kitchen 82
When Charlie Palmer converted Alva into Kitchen 22, he
created the perfect neighborhood restaurant for these
not-exactly-flush times. Now he’s brought the
$25 prix fixe formula (and equally affordable wines)
to a new neighborhood, where the locals will happily
line up without reservations for seasonal American
fare like beef carpaccio with green lentils and
eggplant caviar, and roasted chicken with porcini
risotto.
461 Columbus Avenue, at 82nd Street
212-875-1619
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the underground gourmet |
Modern English
Tony Powe is a Brit who grew up in France, went to
school in Scotland, and opened Jarnac, a
French-Mediterranean bistro in the West Village. That
might explain why he uses the phrase
“cross-Channel cooking” to describe the
fusion fare at Café Topsy, his second
Village venture. The restaurant formerly known as
Papillon has endured several chef and identity
changes, but seems to finally make
sense—attached, as it is, to an Irish bar called
the French Paddy. Powe and Jarnac chef Maryann Terillo
have devised a menu that caters to every neighborhood
need, from morning pastries and Italian wood-roasted
espresso to soup and sandwiches at lunch and hearty
dinner entrées like shepherd’s pie and lamb
shank “Irish-stew-style.” Chicken and
chips come with malt-vinegar dip, tender brisket is
braised in Guinness, and a “coddler” of
rib bacon, garlic sausage, and potatoes cooked in
sauerkraut is cross-Channel choucroute. Sunday brings
ploughman’s brunch and a $25 prix fixe roast
with Yorkshire pudding and all the trimmings. You can
bring the boy out of Britain, it seems, but he’s
bound to bring his hankering for Sunday roast with
him.
Café Topsy
575 Hudson Street
646-638-2900
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tasting |
The Big Finale
With the introduction of his $25 dessert tasting,
Blue Hill pastry chef Pierre Reboul addresses
the burning issue of where to go just for dessert. His
sophisticated parade of sweets (available nightly
after 9:30) will change with the seasons, but for now,
it begins delicately with a palate-cleansing
litchi-champagne sorbet before progressing to a
triplex of crushed avocado under thin layers of lime
sorbet and salted-caramel wafer, dense chocolate bread
pudding, and mango rolls stuffed with tropical-fruit
curd in a coconut-tapioca puddle. He builds up to a
confectionery crescendo with an espresso cup of tart
passion-fruit soufflé and a Chinese soup spoon of
passion-fruit ice cream, then winds down with petits
fours, and finally a batch of warm financiers wrapped
in a linen napkin—which you might, at that
point, be tempted to use as a white flag.
Blue Hill
75
Washington Place
212-539-1776
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in print |
Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie
Even when the tiny Pearl Oyster Bar expands into the
neighboring space next month, scoring a seat
won’t be easy, but you can while away the wait
reading chef Rebecca Charles’s new book,
Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie (ReganBooks;
$27.95). Part family memoir, part culinary
reminiscence, and, of course, part cookbook (from clam
chowder to pecan brittle), Lobster Rolls is
especially a tribute to Charles’s grandmother,
Pearle Goldsmith, and to Maine, where she spent
summers in Kennebunkport. Over the years, the seaside
town wove a magical spell over Pearle and her liberal
Jewish family, even though when they first started
visiting, only one hotel in the Waspy enclave would
accommodate Jews. But the place had other mitigating
charms. As Charles’s great-uncle Sam, the first
member of the clan to blaze a vacation trail Down
East, put it in a postcard to Pearle’s husband:
“You must come up here dear brother . . . The
beach is lovely but the food, ahhh!”
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Ask Gael
How many lives can a restaurant have?
In one of those sense-tingling moments, I savor the
first sublime taste of halibut
“porterhouse,” exquisitely barely cooked,
smartly piquant, and I think that maybe Ken Aretsky,
hand-in-hand with Pico chef-owner John Villa,
can jolt Patroon awake. No denying the
crab is prime and jumbo. And the lone seared scallop
shines alongside braised oxtail. Still, hefty
appetizer prices and some mingy portions seem
unpatriotic, if not un-American. Crackling pork shank
is luscious (by definition seriously fatty), and an
impeccably singed strip of rare sirloin scarcely needs
béarnaise. We’re lapping up the sauce on
excellent fries. Too bad old-fashioned roast duck off
the rotisserie comes padded with fat in a cloyingly
sweet orange sauce that cries for vinegar. Happily,
Dan Rundell’s almondy pear tart and everything
chocolate end the exercise with a high.
Patroon
160 East 46th
Street
212-883-7373
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In the Archives
March 31, 2003
The Mermaid Inn, Ten Sushi, Rice to Riches, Scopello; backstage access at The Restaurant at Spotlight Studios; Dos Caminos Soho and Le Zoccole debut soon; grand dining at Capitale.
March 24, 2003
Pampano, Mexican Sandwich Company, Hacienda de Argentina, Heartland Brewery; Grace foods go to Brooklyn; Rocco DiSpirito's new Tuscan.
March 17, 2003
Rice Avenue, Ivo & Lulu, Basso Est, The Carriage House; inventive scones at Podunk; Gael visits the Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club.
More Openings & Buzz
Photos: Patrik Rytikangas, Carina Savi (2, 5, &6), Tina Rupp (3 & 4).
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