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Restaurants |
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Restaurant Openings & Buzz |
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EDITED BY ROB PATRONITE
AND ROBIN RAISFELD
Week of April 28, 2003
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openings |
Ocean's 21
The inspiration for the new Ocean’s 21,
in case you need a hint, is the New York and Las Vegas
of the fifties and the swingin’ characters who
inhabited them. With drinks like the Ava Gardner
champagne cocktail and the Chairman’s
Cosmopolitan, this self-styled “modern social
club” aims to attract today’s rat packs
(though we can’t imagine what Frank and Dino
would have made of blood-orange purée). The
subterranean space, best known for its long, vaguely
illicit run as the informal social club
Marylou’s, has since been refurnished with red
velvet and gray wool pinstripe, loveseats and
Barcelona chairs, and an Italian-accented menu full of
supper-club classics like shrimp cocktail and veal
scaloppine.
21 West 9th Street
212-475-1551
360
Not that Van Brunt Street, Red Hook’s main
thoroughfare, has turned into another Smith
Street—yet—but Hope & Anchor’s
elevated diner food, the forthcoming Fairway, and
360’s prix fixe French all point to some
serious culinary gentrification. At 360, the $20
three-course menu changes daily, covering the sort of
familiar bistro territory certain to dispel any
lingering dockworker associations. Beyond chicken
liver paté, steak-frites, and crème caramel,
there are à la carte nibbles like charcuterie and
oysters, plus a well-priced selection of organic
wines. Notes for destination diners: It’s a hike
to and from the subway, dinner’s served only
from Thursday to Sunday, and you’ll need
reservations and cash. It’s a brave new
restaurant world, and credit cards aren’t
accepted..
360 Van Brunt Street, Brooklyn
718-246-0360
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best of the week |
Cinco de Mayo at Rosa Mexicano
Celebrate the Mexican defeat of the French with seafood empanadas, chiles rellenos, and the rest of Rosa Mexicano's special prix fixe tasting menu. ($50)
Rosa Mexicano
61 Columbus Avenue, at 62nd St.
212-977-7700 1063 First Avenue, at 59th St. 212-753-7407
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object of desire |
How Come You Taste So Good?
Craftbar pastry chef Karen DeMasco calls her
latest irresistible concoction a brown-sugar cake, but
you could say it’s more like a
pineapple-upside-down-and-off-to-the-side cake. Like a
Belgian fashion designer, she’s cleverly
deconstructed a classic, serving the moist,
sugar-soaked confection alongside a roasted slice of
fresh pineapple and a right-side-up scoop of vanilla
ice cream.
Craftbar
47 East 19th Street
212-780-0880
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shopping |
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Milking It
You’ve had buffalo mozzarella. You’ve had
buffalo ricotta. Now, thanks to the pioneering efforts
of a Wharton M.B.A. turned Vermont dairy farmer, you
can have buffalo-milk yogurt, a ubiquitous presence in
India and Southeast Asia—and, legend has it, on
Fidel Castro’s dinner table. (Doesn’t
sound very proletarian, does it?) Dr. David Muller
bought his 100-head herd and started producing
Woodstock Water Buffalo Yogurt at Star Hill
Dairy largely in response to the precipitous decline
of cow’s-milk prices, attempting a creative
solution to Vermont’s dairy-industry woes.
Available in plain, maple, and honey flavors,
Woodstock yogurt has a richness and creaminess
reminiscent of the European-style strained yogurt
that’s become so popular on the gourmet-shop
circuit. Next up: Vermont-made buffalo mozzarella and
ricotta, destined for a pizzeria near you. (Available
at Zabar’s, Murray’s Cheese Shop, Garden
of Eden, and many other retail locations; for a full
list, visit woodstockwaterbuffalo.com.)
Slope Hope
Park Slope gourmets—and is there any other type
of Park Sloper these days?—have another reason
to shop locally with the arrival of Market, the
lovely new neighbor to Bistro
St. Marks run by the restaurant’s owners,
Johannes Sanzin and Dominique Drevet. A small
selection of meats, cheeses, breads from Sullivan
Street Bakery and TriBakery, tasty prepared dishes,
and soups reprised from the partners’ Souperman
days are available, along with organic fruit and
freshly cut flowers. It’s enough to make you
want to eat in, but you’ll soon have the option
of dining in the back, where Sanzin plans to install a
40-seat trattoria serving pastas, risotto, and grilled
fish in the fall.
Market
78
St. Marks Avenue, Brooklyn
718-857-0027
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Ask Gael
Have I been missing something on Avenue C?
If, like me, you thought the far East Village was
no-man’s-land, think again. Gazing out from the
bar at Bao 111, I realize that Avenue C is
downright gentrified. You could be in Cleveland. And
it’s worth an excursion now that chef Michael
Huynh is focused on his Vietnam roots—dishing up
savory short rib on lemongrass skewers, plump clams in
a fragrant beer broth, and wonderful prawn-stuffed
calamari with cucumber relish. Don’t miss his
fragrant yam soup with tiger shrimp. Huynh plays
within a Saigon palette in his
lobster-and-lotus-rootlet salad and in splendid
pan-fried sea bass—half traditional Vietnam,
half an homage to his Saigon mom. Desserts are pure
fantasy, both goofy and good. With a major sake
protocol, a 2 a.m. closing time, and
front-of-the-house veterans Chris Johnson (BondSt,
Town) and Chris Andrews (Canteen, Les
Célébrités) as partners, Bao 111 angles
to be a new late-night chef hangout.
Bao 111
111 Avenue C
212-254-7773
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In the Archives
April 21, 2003
Nick's, Morrells Restaurant, Nice Matin, Chubo, Azaza, Franchia; find comfort in Home's cooking.
April 14, 2003
Chennai Garden, Barking Dog, Kitchen 82; dessert tasting at Blue Hill; feastable lemon-meringue; Chef Rebecca Charles's new book; Patroon gets another wake-up call.
March 31, 2003
The Mermaid Inn, Ten Sushi, Rice to Riches, Scopello; backstage access at The Restaurant at Spotlight Studios; Dos Caminos Soho and Le Zoccole debut soon; grand dining at Capitale.
More Openings & Buzz
Photos: Patrik Rytikangas (1, 2), Tina Rupp (3-5), Kenneth Chen (6).
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