Borgatti's Ravioli and Egg Noodles

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The potent aroma of warm, eggy paste that fills this bright, tiny shop has been an essential part of the Belmont neighborhood since the thirties. And so has the massive, old-fashioned machine that pumps away for most of the day at Borgatti's, turning out sheets of fresh pasta that may be ordered in a variety of sizes: linguine, fettucine, or four other widths illustrated on a handy piece of cardboard. Experienced workers behind the counter run the pasta through a hand cutter, then toss the strips lightly with corn meal and wrap them in white butcher paper. The shelves holds bags of just-dried mushroom, carrot or squid ink noodles, and the refrigerated case stores trays of manicotti and fresh ravioli�meat-spinach or cheese filled. A number of jarred sauces are available as well, but, like the nearby restaurants that buy in bulk from Borgatti's, customers make the journey primarily for the noodles. — Jack Robertiello

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