Tal Bagels

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Vying with other popular New York bagel emporia, the bagels at Tal are neither as big as Ess-A-Bagel's nor as glutinous as their crosstown counterparts at H&H. Rather, Tal strikes a happy balance between chewy (outside) and doughy (inside). With the exception of the fairly scary, unnaturally pink smoked salmon cream cheese, spreads like whitefish, salmon both smoked and baked, and chopped herring are fresh and tasty. Breaking with bagel convention, behind the counter you'll also find a gourmet assortment of fresh-sliced deli meats: several kinds of salami, six flavors of turkey, and a range of hams. Crust lovers, take note: Tal doesn't toast, so it’s best to order whatever flavor is still hot from the oven. But counter helpers will gladly scoop out bagel innards for the carb-conscious, no matter your choice of salad or schmear. — Nancy Davidson

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Neighborhood Bagels: Upper East Side (2007)