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I couldn’t wait to check out the St. Louis�style pork ribs at Smokin’ Q.

In no time at all we zoom over the Williamsburg Bridge to the charmingly rustic Fiore, with its spiffy service and enticing Italian home cooking.

The reconstituted 2nd Avenue Deli on a quiet side street is a bittersweet triumph.

Fatty Crab’s hustling impresario Zak Pelaccio is still fine-tuning his Pan-Asian riff at Chop Suey.

If there is cachet in having an entrance even the average Mensa candidate can’t find, the new Dovetail has it.

Coming after �I’m not your bitch, bitch� fame on Bravo’s Top Chef, chef-consultant Dave Martin’s new �think bistro, dine casual� restaurant, Crave on 42nd, lacks some heft.

In no time at all, East Villagers have discovered the Smith with its good, honest el cheapo grub.

The grand scheme to turn Shelly’s Tradizionale into an Italian fish house celebrating the Tuscan seashore has been officially launched.

The team that created the brilliant and refined tasting menu at Dévi that quickly became a smash hit is back, having bought out the boss.

Irving Mill seems to be flaunting the genes of Gramercy Tavern in the autumn-farm-stand pumpkin display at the door, the vintage touches of its vast tavernlike space, and that familiar genteel and friendly style of service.