How to Dress Like a Maitre d’

San Domenico's Maitre d'  in New York.
Photo: Kenneth Chen

At San Domenico, it’s out with the tuxedos, in with the custom-tailored red pinstripes. Owner Tony May recently gave his venerable Italian restaurant an Adam Tihany makeover and decided the monkey suits had to go, all part of San Domenico’s younger, fresher look. The new uniforms were designed by Max Girombelli and David Bocognano, partners in Duca Sartoria. For two fittings and $2,500, one could be yours.

(1) As sommelier Piero Trotta demonstrates, lots of secret pockets for cell phone, keys, and cigarette lighter. “Never keep anything in outside pockets, so you don’t ruin the line of the jacket,” says pocket-happy Girombelli. This one (center) is lined in suede and designed to hold a corkscrew, but incumbent presidential candidates could use it to stash a radio transmitter.

(2) Rubberized waistband— “exclusively made in Italy,” notes Girombelli—holds shirttail in place despite repeated bowing to guests or gesticulating at busboys.

(3) Single pleats: “Because not all of the staff is skinny enough for flat-front trousers,” says Girombelli.

(4) Working buttons on the sleeves, one slyly left undone, announces unequivocally that this suit did not come from the Men’s Wearhouse.

(5) Navy Zegna Super 120s red-striped fabric says timeless classic but with a cheeky twist, plus “the stripes echo the new banquettes and lighting design,” says Girombelli.

(6) Spread collar, Windsor-knotted Duca Sartoria tie: “We always suggest a big Italian knot for the best look,” says Girombelli.

How to Dress Like a Maitre d’