Upper Crusts

Waldy's Wood-Fired Pizza & Penne in New York.
Waldy Malouf gets into the dough-tossing game.Photo: Kenneth Chen

Waldy’s Wood-Fired Pizza & Penne
800 Sixth Avenue, near 27th Street; December
Waldy Malouf has been making fabulous under-the-radar pizza at Beacon for years.
Signature pie: Wild mushroom and quattro formaggi thin-crust pizza, shaped like a skateboard and cooked in a wood-fired oven. Plus baked macaroni and stromboli.Fornino
187 Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn; late September
Former Cucina chef Michael Ayoub; Peter Reinhart, pizza expert and author of American Pie: My Search for the Perfect Pizza, consults on the dough.
Signature pie: Neapolitan-style, topped with greens, garlic, and tomato plucked from the chef’s backyard garden; wood-burning oven.Una Pizza Napoletana
349 East 12th Street; October.
Bread baker and New Jersey pieman Anthony Mangieri is a reputed stickler for authenticity and a scourge of slice seekers; he flies in buffalo mozzarella from Naples, too.
Signature pie: Classic Neapolitan twelve-inch margherita pizza cooked in a wood-fired brick oven.

Upper Crusts