Photographs: Wally Gobetz (Red Hook); Ryan Monaghan (The Spotted Pig); Dave Cook (Mo Gridder’s); Stewart Isbell (Fette Sau); Greg Kellerman (Rockaway Taco); Ben Stechschulte (Arepa Lady); Melissa Hom/New York Magazine (New Leaf Cafe, El Quinto Pino, Resto, Corton, Torrisi, and Katz’s); Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine (Cafe Kashkar, Vinegar Hill House, Charles Pan- Fried Chicken, Patsy’s, Da Ciro, Momofuku, Roberta’s, Mile End, The Smoke Joint, Dram Shop, Franny’s, Yun Nan Flavour Snack Shop, The Loading Dock, Tortilleria Nixtamal, and Zero Otto Nove); Jed Egan/New York Magazine (El Malecon); Ashley Consiglio/New York Magazine (5 & Diamond, Barney Greengrass, Atelier De Joel Robuchon, Minetta Tavern, Sho Shaun Hergatt, Bake & Things, Acme Smoked Fish, Feeding Tree, and Real Azteca); Jackie Ladner/New York Magazine (Balthazar); Lea Golis (Iris Cafe, Agnanti’s, Spicy & Tasty, Manducatis Rustica, Alpha, and Sripraphai); Andrew Ingalls/Courtesy Of Vinegar Hill House; Chris Villano/Courtesy Of Scarpetta; Aldo Di Berardino/Courtesy Of Saraghina; Christine Williams/Courtesy Of Brennan & Carr; Lauren Marsh/Courtesy Of Lloyd’s Carrot Cake; Tom Lana/Courtesy Of Coals; Alma Benussi/Courtesy Of Enoteca Maria; Courtesy Of Xi’an Famous Foods, Tanoreen, Frankies, Farm On Adderley, Johnny’s Famous Reef, Salvatore Of Soho, New Asha, And Marea.
hudson heights
Brunch, New Leaf Restaurant & Bar
1 Margaret Corbin Dr., nr. 190th St.
A bucolic setting for creamy scrambled eggs and airy apple pancakes.
washington heights
Rotisserie Chicken, El Malecón
4141 Broadway, at 175th St.
The dictionary definition of spit-roasted chicken, crispy skinned and juicy fleshed.
harlem
Burger, 5 & Diamond
2072 Frederick Douglass Blvd., nr. 112th St.
A veritable Frankenpatty of flap steak, beef cheek, and fatback.
central harlem
$15.16 Buffet, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken
2839”2841 Frederick Douglass Blvd., nr. 151st St.
Soul food, in all its smothered, saucy, crisp-crusted glory.
MIDTOWN EAST
L’oeuf de Poule, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
57 E. 57th St., nr. Park Ave.
Robuchon is a master with eggs, and this $89 appetizer is his finest creation.
CHELSEA
Uni Panini, El Quinto Pino
401 W. 24th St., nr. Ninth Ave.
Sea-urchin roe on ficelle with a Korean-mustard-oil-flavored butter given a turn in the panini press.
MURRAY HILL
Focaccia Robiola, Da Ciro
229 Lexington Ave., nr. 34th St.
Double-crusted, truffle-scented bliss.
ROSE HILL
Tête de Cochon Sandwich, Resto
111 E. 29th St., nr. Park Ave. S.
Curry-braised pig’s-head meat, pickled vegetables, and homemade mayo on toast. A bánh mì gone mad.
WEST VILLAGE
Cuban Sandwich, The Spotted Pig
314 W. 11th St., at Greenwich St.
A requisite fifteen-minute wait, a porky gourmet payoff.
MEATPACKING DISTRICT
Spaghetti Tomato and Basil, Scarpetta
355 W. 14th St., nr. Ninth Ave.
Destination-worthy spaghetti. Simple but transcendent.
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Bone-in New York Strip and Pommes Anna, Minetta Tavern
113 Macdougal St., nr. Bleecker St.
The perfect meat-and-potatoes match.
EAST VILLAGE
Fried-Chicken Dinner, Momofuku Noodle Bar
171 First Ave., nr. 11th St.
Chang combines the messy pleasures of a southern fry-up with the grandeur of Peking Duck.
SOHO
Boudin Noir, Balthazar
80 Spring St., at Crosby St.
Enjoy this perfect version of the peasant classic with several flagons of Côtes du Rhône.
NOLITA
Italian-American Prix Fixe Dinner, Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry St., nr. Prince St.
Red-sauce reformation in four exquisite courses.
LOWER EAST SIDE
Pastrami Sandwich, Katz’s Delicatessen
205 E. Houston St., at Ludlow St.
The seminal sandwich, in the seminal New York restaurant.
TRIBECA
Caramelized Brioche, Corton
239 W. Broadway, nr. White St.
Comfort food with the artistry of old-fashioned haute cuisine.
CHINATOWN
Savory Cumin Lamb Hand-Pulled Noodles, Xi’an Famous Foods
88 E. Broadway, nr. Forsyth St. These tender but chewy noodles set the local standard.
FINANCIAL DISTRICT
Lamb Belly With Fermented Garlic, SHO Shaun Hergatt
40 Broad St., at Exchange Pl.
The most elegant meat dish in a carnivorous neighborhood.
ASTORIA
Ntakos, Agnanti
19-06 Ditmars Blvd., nr. 19th St.
Bone-dry Cretan rusks moistened with a salty slick of olive oil, olives, feta, tomato, and capers.
ROCKAWAY BEACH
Tacos, Rockaway Taco
95-19 Rockaway Beach Blvd., nr. Beach 96th St.
Topped with cabbage, cilantro, radish, and lime. Perfect surfer snacks.
CORONA
Tamales, Tortilleria Nixtamal
104-05 47th Ave., nr. 104th St.
The sausage-and-pepper Italiano Special pays tribute to the neighborhood’s past.
FLUSHING
Dan Dan Noodles, Spicy & Tasty
39-07 Prince St., nr. 39th Ave.
The compulsory, capsaicin-packed prelude to any serious Sichuan meal, in the place that does them best.
JACKSON HEIGHTS
Arepas, The Arepa Lady Street Cart
Roosevelt Ave. nr. 78th St.
Vendor Maria Piedad Cano griddles Colombian arepas de queso to crispy, oozing perfection.
LONG ISLAND CITY
Gelato, Manducatis Rustica
46-33 Vernon Blvd., nr. 46th Rd.
Fluffy yet dense housemade flavors; pistachio and hazelnut are standouts.
SUNNYSIDE
Doughnuts, Alpha Donuts
45-16 Queens Blvd., nr. 45th St. This well-worn coffee shop’s star attractions are impeccably fresh, and if you’re lucky, still warm.
WOODSIDE
Crispy-Chinese-Watercress Salad, Sripraphai
64-13 39th Ave., nr. 64th St.
A textural triumph of chicken, shrimp, squid, and deep-fried greens.
BELMONT
Pizza, Zero Otto Nove
2357 Arthur Ave., nr. 186th St.
The “La Riccardo” (butternut squash, smoked mozz, pancetta, and chile flakes) is a must.
CITY ISLAND
Shrimp and Lobster, Johnny’s Famous Reef Restaurant
2 City Island Ave., nr. Belden St.
Deep-fried seaside goodness that tastes just right in this land’s-end setting.
RIVERDALE
Carrot Cake, Lloyd’s Carrot Cake
6087 Broadway, nr. 251st St.
An exceedingly moist and subtly spiced carotene-enriched confection.
CONCOURSE VILLAGE
Curried Goat, Feeding Tree
892 Gerard Ave., nr. E. 161st St.
A pregame pit stop for Yankees fans who flock for good jerk and better curried goat.
MORRIS PARK
Grilled Pizza, Coals
1888 Eastchester Rd., nr. Morris Park Ave.
The three-cheese Pure Bliss is a paragon of the delicately crunchy grilled-pie form.
HUNTS POINT
Ribs, Mo Gridder’s BBQ
565 Hunts Point Ave., at Randall Ave.
Fred Donnelly produces the smokiest, most tender ribs in Hunts Point and beyond.
LONGWOOD
Quesadillas and Tacos, Real Azteca
1013 E. 163rd St., nr. Simpson St.
The pork tacos and huitlacoche quesadillas taste like Mexico itself.
ST. GEORGE
Grandma Cuisine, Enoteca Maria
27 Hyatt St., nr. Central Ave.
A rotating roster of Italian grandmas cook specialties from Abruzzo, Sicily, and elsewhere.
DONGAN HILLS
Pizza, Salvatore of Soho
1880 Hylan Blvd., nr. Slater Blvd.
The best pie in the borough served, as the menu warns (or brags?), “charred and well-done.”
TOMPKINSVILLE
Appam, New Asha
322 Victory Blvd., nr. Cebra Ave.
Bowl-shaped rice-flour pancakes are just one of the novelties found at this friendly Sri Lankan spot.
PORT RICHMOND
Italian Ices, Ralph’s Famous Italian Ices
501 Port Richmond Ave., at Catherine St.
Summer in a cup, since 1928.
BAY RIDGE
Meze Plate, Tanoreen
7523 Third Ave., nr. 76th St.
The smokiest baba, the creamiest hummus, and spices that cast a spell.
BED-STUY
Neapolitan Pizza, Saraghina
435 Halsey St., at Lewis Ave.
You can taste the pizzaiolo’s passion (and the wood-fired oven doesn’t hurt).
brighton beach
Lagman, Cafe Kashkar
1141 Brighton Beach Ave., nr. Brighton 15th St.
Herby, lamby Uyghur soup, packed with springy hand-pulled noodles.
brooklyn heights
Sticky Bun, Iris Cafe
20 Columbia Pl., nr. Joralemon St.
Tender, buttery, house-baked perfection, especially with French-pressed Stumptown.
bushwick
Fried Chicken, Roberta’s
261 Moore St., nr. Bogart St.
A convincing evocation of the South, extra-crispy skin, honey-buttered biscuit and all.
carroll gardens
Meatballs, Frankies 457 Spuntino
457 Court St., nr. Luquer St.
Even the Italian grannies in the neighborhood marvel over these tender orbs.
boerum hill
Smoked-Meat Sandwich, Mile End
97A Hoyt St., nr. Atlantic Ave.
Impudent Quebeçois upstart or the best new smoky, succulent deli sandwich in town? You be the judge.
east flatbush
Doubles, Bake & Things
184 E. 35th St., nr. Church Ave.
This takeout joint’s version of the Trini street-food specialty can’t be beat.
ditmas park
French Fries, The Farm on Adderley
1108 Cortelyou Rd., nr. Stratford Rd.
It’s all in the details: skin-on, hand-cut Carolas, twice-fried to crispy perfection.
vinegar hill
Pork Chop, Vinegar Hill House
72 Hudson Ave., nr. Water St.
Wood fired, cut in thick slabs like prime rib, and served in grand midtown style.
Fort Greene
Black Angus Hot Dog, The Smoke Joint
87 S. Elliott Pl., nr. Lafayette Ave.
Excellent plain, even better topped with pulled pork, chicken, or hacked beef.
greenpoint
Smoked Fish, Acme Smoked Fish Corp.
30-56 Gem St., nr. N. 15th St.
The salmon of your Sunday-brunch dreams (Friday mornings only).
park slope
Double Cheeseburger, Dram Shop Bar
339 9th St., nr. Fifth Ave.
A deliciously drippy, Texas-style bar burger. One of the top ten in town.
prospect heights
Clam Pizza, Franny’s
295 Flatbush Ave., nr. Prospect Pl.
Screw New Haven. This is the best clam pie in the tristate region.
red hook
Latin American Street Food, Red Hook Ballfields
Bay St. nr. Clinton St.
The Salvadoran pupusa, the Mexican huarache, and más.
sheepshead bay
Hot Beef Sandwich, Brennan & Carr
3432 Nostrand Ave., at Ave. U.
Roast-beef sandwiches dunked into vats of broth like doughnuts.
sunset park
Hot-and-Sour Soup, Yun Nan Flavour Snack Shop
775A 49th St., nr. Eighth Ave.
An invigorating broth and enough pork dumplings to feed a Yunnanese army.
williamsburg
Pastrami With Burnt-End Baked Beans”and a Pickle, Fette Sau
354 Metropolitan Ave., nr. Havemeyer St.
Meat to convert a vegetarian: succulent and smoky.
downtown brooklyn
Fish Tacos, The Loading Dock
170 Tillary St., nr. Gold St.
Crisply battered mahimahi tucked into fresh tortillas and drizzled with bright housemade salsas.
