4. Grand onions Mountain Sweet Berry Farm of Roscoe, NY, has the best ramps and potatoes, Dufresne says. As he picked out his bunches, at left, he stopped to visit with Jean-Georges Vongerichten's delivery man, who was leaving with his own bag of stock for the chef's restaurants.
5. Got to be eel The smoked eel at this bare-bones, sign-free stand (facing the Blue Water Grill) is "fabulous," Dufresne says. The product has just enough balance to let the eel's flavor come through.
6. Slimmer pickings The advantage of being a regular? Looking for thinner ramps than the ones on display, Dufresne heads behind the stand for a better selection.
4. Grand onions 
5. Got to be eel
6. Slimmer pickings