Laurent Gras (pictured, above) propelled Chicago’s L2O to triple-Michelin stardom, then unexpectedly resigned to begin planning a more casual project back in New York. His first gig since: a Mardi Gras–themed pop-up on March 7 in the private food-orgy room at Locanda Verde, where he’ll collaborate with his pal Andrew Carmellini (right) on an $85 prix fixe menu of crawfish, gumbo, oysters Rockefeller, blackened trout, and pecan duck with dirty rice. Bead girls and New York’s only zydeco D.J. (if they can book him) will liven things up, and dessert will come courtesy of Locanda pastry whiz Karen DeMasco (377 Greenwich St., at N. Moore St.; 212-925-3797; reservations accepted starting February 7).