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Rick Owens, designer
"My word is soft. The cashmeres are soft, the knits are soft. Even the leathers are soft."
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Nicole Noselli, co-designer, Bruce
"This season, we were trying to loosen up our shapes a little. We've always been into long, structured shapes, and we wanted to move on to something else. We're trying to do a lot of layering and draping. The idea was that if wind hits the garments, they'd create a lot of volume.
Last season was such a strange time, but in the end, it didn't change anything. This is what we do, and now we're doing it again."
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Diane von Furstenberg, designer
"We all feel a little more vulnerable, but a little kinder and a little more humble. What I wanted to do was somehow celebrate New York. That's why I called it 'Crosstown Traffic' it's because New York is the crosstown of the world, it's where everyone comes to sell their wares, it's where dreams turn into action. I don't really do advertising, so showing is a way of conveying the image and conveying the mood and a certain spirit and a certain attitude. You go back and forth and say shows are ridiculous, but at the end you see gorgeous girls wearing the clothes, bringing them to life."
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Benjamin Cho, designer
"I've definitely come back in with a calmer perspective I had time to breathe, and I just understand that I enjoy doing this, making clothes, nothing else. This season, I felt less like making things commercial. That's not my point right now. I don't mind living cheap and doing this as long as I can make things that I really believe in. If I'm working on a budget, I just have to think: Do I want to make wearable pants or buy ribbons for this conceptual top that I'm completely excited to try? The conceptual always wins."
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Cynthia Rowley, designer
"I always used to say, 'A show should be a show! It's entertainment!' But not anymore. I wanted a really simple runway. I've been having a lot of people over to my apartment. It changes everything when you start doing that: You have a totally different attitude about what you're wearing. It can be hot or cold, and it doesn't matter. I showed a lot of skimpy, bare, nightie things that are meant to have a big coat thrown over them if you're going outside, but they're the most comfortable thing to have on in the most protective environment."
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Sarah Hailes and Beth Buccini, owners, Kirna Zab�te
"We loved the mini at Balenciaga. That's going to be a very important silhouette for us, with the oversize top. We also loved the tough leather jackets with high necks. There's definitely a neck thing going on big, high, thick, thick necks. But if there's one thing that bridges the season, it's the hippie thing. I'd say folkloric is the theme that will bridge spring into winter."
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Anna Sui, designer
"I wanted to project optimism. I wanted to make the sort of clothes that should be keepsakes. I wanted to make the most beautiful peasant shirt, the one you dream of finding, in the colors that you dream of. We all have to show our support in our own way, and this is what I do. I wanted to make this the most exciting show I ever did."
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Simon Doonan, retailer, Barneys
"I'm always looking at the clothes and saying, 'Is this going to improve anyone's life?' And with Michael Kors, the answer was yes. And the same thing with Narciso and Ralph. There was an optimism about it. And yet it was very chic and wearable. Narciso was a bit more kinky, but the execution was great. I hate a dangling thread, so I tend to gravitate towards the things that are beautifully made.
"There's something innately mod about Michael and Ralph that appeals to me. I like sportswear, and I like it to be beautifully executed. If I want to see the avant-garde, I'm going to look at Rei Kawakubo. But I love sportswear, and that's what New York is all about."
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