In the world of winemaking, blending vineyard sites and barrels is a delicate art, akin to a symphony where nature and human expertise work together to create something extraordinary.

At Appassionata Estate in the Chehalem Mountains in Oregon's Willamette Valley, winemaker Tim Malone’s approach to these wines is deeply rooted in a philosophy of precision and patience. And his recent collaboration with legendary German winemaker Ernst (Erni) Loosen plays a significant role in shaping Appassionata's wines.

“There are so many things I’ve learned from working with Erni, but one that will always stand out is being able to make wines from a multi-generational perspective. No one else is making wines on a commercial scale that are cellared before release like this,” Malone says via Zoom. “Erni is really trying and achieving something many Americans just can’t conceive. He has a great saying, ‘I’m doing it for the love of wine,’ and it’s true. No one would think about making these incredible wines and then not release them.”

Each expression is meant to offer a distinct journey in flavor, aging potential and a reflection of the diverse soils of the Willamette Valley. The three trio of pinot noir wines are being released at three, five and ten years respectively.

“Erni brings this real longevity, this long-term outlook that I was not accustomed to before but that I’m certainly appreciating now,” Malone says. “Never before would I be able to create these artistic blends and see how they evolve overtime.”

Named after the first movement of a sonata, Allegro is supposed to capture the essence of liveliness. Malone describes it as a wine built for both early enjoyment and long-term aging.

"In the Allegro, we’re looking for balance, great acidity and a stronger fruit profile compared to the other pinot noirs," he explains. The wine's foundation comes from younger vines planted in red volcanic clay soils, which lend structure and allow the wine to age gracefully.

"If there’s anything artistic I bring to this whole enterprise, it’s through blending. I have a vision in my head of where I want to go, and I try blend after blend until I get to the right place," he notes.

Andante, the second wine in the series, represents a step toward greater complexity. Released after five years, this cuvée is crafted with patience and restraint, embodying elegance and refinement.

"Andante tends to be dominated by fruit from volcanic soils," says Malone. The wine’s balance, Malone explains, between fruit-forward charm and more structured, earthy notes comes from a careful selection of barrels, each evaluated for its unique contribution. "Blending barrels is honestly a lot like kids; they don’t always play nice together."

Despite the challenges, Andante is described as easier for Malone to blend due to his extensive experience working with volcanic soils. The result is a wine with great aromatic finesse, designed to age for years to come while offering a graceful drinking experience in its youth.

At the pinnacle of Appassionata’s offerings is Fortissimo, a wine crafted for ultimate longevity and released only after a decade of careful aging. "Soil is a major component for Fortissimo and its terroir expression," Malone explains.

Volcanic soil and basalt deposits from the estate vineyard contribute to the wine’s powerful structure, allowing it to develop profound complexity over time. "Because we’re focused on longevity, we can make wines we know will be great—we’re just giving them the time needed to make that greatness happen," he adds.

One of the most distinctive aspects of the Appassionata pinot noirs is the blending process, which Malone describes as both intuitive and methodical. The wines are released when they are just entering their drinking window, a decision informed by regular tastings in the cellar.

“it’s all dependent on what the vintage gives us,” Malone says. “Throughout the year we do tastings and evaluate how the wines are progressing in the cellar so we can determine when that drinking window will be revealed. Over time we’re looking for the tertiary elements and complexities to reveal themselves, something that can only happen with age.”

Appassionata Estate’s vineyard reflects the Willamette Valley’s diverse terroir, with over 11 different soil types mapped across 20 acres. This variety allows for a wide range of blending possibilities, resulting in wines that express the unique qualities of the region. In 2023, Oregon’s total planted wine grape acreage grew by 1,512 acres, rising from 44,487 to 45,999, a 3% increase. Pinot noir continues to dominate, representing nearly 60% of all planted acreage and 59% of wine grape production, according to the Oregon Wine Board.

"The incredible variations in soil type and aspects are inspiring to work with," says Malone.

In 2023, Oregon had 1,143 bonded wineries, reflecting a 2% increase from 2022, which had seen a 4% rise in new wineries. The Willamette Valley accounted for 843 wineries, making up 73% of the state's total wineries. Additionally, the state now has 1,512 vineyards, a 2% increase from 2022.

With Oregon's wine industry steadily expanding, winemakers like Malone are leveraging both local and international expertise to refine their craft.

“Erni’s wealth of wine knowledge is something I’m always tapping into, but he’s also introduced me to the world of traditional European winemaking techniques and exposed me to wines that I wouldn’t have the opportunity to experience on my own,” Malone says. “These experiences make me a better winemaker because I’m able to expand and build my palate as well as my approach to blending in the cellar.”