The rugged, mineral-rich slopes of Mount Etna’s north face in Sicily provide an increasingly rare environment for cultivating nerello mascalese, a native grape prized for its complexity and structure.

Here, at high altitudes on an active volcano, conditions seem paradoxically ideal.

Volcanic soil and cooling winds allow the grape to ripen gradually, developing a flavor profile unique to this dramatic landscape. Yet as climate change brings higher temperatures and erratic weather, the distinctive conditions that shape these grapes are under pressure.

On Etna’s north face, young volcanic soil constantly rejuvenates itself, creating an unusual ecosystem.

“The peculiarity of Etna’s volcanic soil is that it’s young and in continuous evolution,” explains Diego Cusumano, co-owner of Cusumano Winery and Alta Mora Wines, two Sicilian wineries known for producing nerello mascalese, via email. “The lava and ash create a system in constant ‘fermentation,’ where energy remains at elevated levels, carbon dioxide is drawn from the atmosphere and life is constantly being generated.”

These active soils contain high levels of minerals like potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and calcium—nutrients that help the vines resist environmental stressors and enable them to produce robust, flavorful grapes .

Altitude is another factor that plays a crucial role. The high elevation on Etna’s north face offers cooler temperatures than other parts of Sicily, even in warmer months. This altitude slows the grape-ripening process, which results in wines with balanced acidity and refined flavors.

“The average minimum temperatures in September and October, around 14°C, create ideal conditions to slow grape ripening, enhancing the secondary metabolism of aromas and compounds that add depth of flavor and complexity,” Cusumano says, via email. “These temperatures help preserve the natural freshness of the musts and wines.”

In addition to altitude, the combination of volcanic soil and rainfall patterns creates conditions unlike those in other Sicilian wine regions or even other volcanic zones like Vulture and Taurasi. Cusumano describes Etna’s climate as “a combination of the right amount of rainfall for optimal vine growth, ripening and cool temperatures.” This delicate balance allows the vines to thrive in a way they might not in warmer, less elevated areas. These conditions are critical for maintaining the unique character of nerello mascalese as environmental changes impact winemaking globally .

Climate change, however, is introducing complications. Higher average temperatures and unpredictable rainfall patterns are altering the growing season. The north face’s cooler microclimate offers some resistance, but winemakers must adapt their practices to maintain quality.

“The challenge is harnessing the earth’s energy to channel it into the grapes and ultimately the wine,” Cusumano says, emphasizing that managing the vigor of the vines has become increasingly complex. Short, rigorous pruning helps control the vines’ exuberant growth, while careful selection of plots where water can reach the vines at just the right moment is essential.

“The vine must be able to adapt in order to go from a cold winter climate to summer heat, then return to cooler conditions again at the end of ripening,” he adds.

Volcanic soils and the challenging topography on Etna’s slopes add another layer of difficulty. Terraces shaped by ancient lava flows limit vineyard space, and manual labor remains the only option in many areas. Most vineyard operations are done by hand, as mechanical cultivation is often impractical on the steep terrain.

“Perhaps the greatest challenge, however, is that most of our operations are done by hand, because there are only small plots and terraces shaped by the lava and on which the vineyards are planted,” Cusumano explains.

Wind patterns also influence the growing process. Consistent winds, coupled with lower nighttime temperatures, preserve the acidity of the grapes and allow for the development of complex tannins, which contribute to the wine’s structure and softness.

According to Cusumano, these temperatures “encourage the polymerization of tannins, resulting in soft, densely structured tannins that give density on the palate.” The combination of climate, altitude and soil results in wines that are recognized for their depth and subtle elegance, setting them apart from other wines in Sicily and even from other volcanic wine-growing regions.

As winemakers on Etna confront environmental changes, there is also a growing awareness of the north face’s unique advantages. The reputation of nerello mascalese has grown considerably, with a global market now eager for the distinct wines from Etna’s north face.

With the wine industry facing unprecedented challenges from climate change, Etna’s north face may become even more critical for producing grapes that can withstand these shifts. Cusumano believes this region’s terroir will continue to evolve in tandem with the climate.

“Nerello mascalese grown on the northern side of Mount Etna is in a state of continuous evolution and improvement due to the dynamic development of its soils, a climate highly favorable to quality and a remarkable resistance to climate variations,” he says.