The Urbanist’s Mumbai � Where to Eat -- New York Magazine

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The Urbanist’s Mumbai: Where to Eat

Secret Vindaloo Ribs and No-So-Secret Fish Curry
Mansi Poddar and Kanika Parab, co-founders of lifestyle blog Brown Paper Bag, reveal their favorite spots.


Goa Bhavan Canteen  

Cuisine: Bohri Muslim
Middle Eastern/ Arabic influences; both meaty and veg-friendly

Underground:
The Bohri Kitchen (email [email protected]).
�In a historical Colaba apartment, the very charming Kapadia family serves authentic Bohri meals to no more than 14 diners at a time. Expect bread-crumb-coated chicken drumsticks, pots of autumnal mutton biryani, and paaya soup made with goat trotters.�

Established:
Surti 12 Handi (Gujar St., No. 12, Bohri Mohalla) and Neel (Gate Nos. 5 and 6, Mahalaxmi Racecourse; 22-6157-7777; thetote.in).
�You’ll find bara handi, a Bohri special made with gravies, lentils, and meats, at Surti 12 Handi. For a more luxe experience, eat at Neel, a pristine Indian restaurant at the Mumbai racecourse.�


Cuisine: Kerala
Matta rice and South Indian spicy curries

Underground:
Poppaddum (email [email protected]).
�Sneha Nair quit her job in finance to work on this kitchen serving three types of Kerala meals�Hindu, Malabar Muslim, and Syrian Christian�out of her home in Bandra. Experiences range from a sadhya, a vegetarian meal plated on a banana leaf, to meen pollichathu, backwater fish roasted in spices.�

Established:
Sneha Restaurant (No. 53, Shiva Sagar Housing Society, Lady Jamshedji Rd., Mahim; 22-2445-6330) and Konkan Cafe (Vivanta by Taj, 90 Cuffe Parade; 22-6665-0808).
�Locals loved the beef chili at Sneha, so traffic fell after the beef ban. But it’s still worth a visit for the fish curry. Or try a nadan kozhi roast at Konkan Cafe at the Vivanta by Taj hotel instead.�


Cuisine: Goa
Seafood heavy, with hints of Portuguese

Underground:
The Gypsy Kitchen (visit the GypsyKitchen Facebook page for a way in).
�In an attempt to preserve heirloom recipes, chef Gresham Fernandes collaborates every month or two with a different home cook�preferably a grandmum. They often serve jazzed-up Goan delicacies like smoked chorizo with cider and baby back ribs with vindaloo.�

Established:
Goa Bhavan Canteen (Gulmohar Cross Rd. 12, Juhu) and Soul Fry (Silver Croft, G/F, Pali Mala Rd., Bandra W.; 22-2604-6892).
�Located in a Juhu guesthouse of the same name, Goa Bhavan is best known for fish platters. Soul Fry in Bandra may not serve super-authentic food, but it evokes the merry Goan mood, with owner Meldan D’Cunha serving a storm of local rum.�


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