Savannah, Georgia Savannah has a rowdy side -- if you know where to go From the April 22, 2002 Issue of New York Despite the rococo fame Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil brought to this southern gem, Savannah's sexy side remains elusive to casual visitors. Beneath those airs of antebellum gentility, the city is a kitschy party central, but where to find the fun? Good-time junketeers who want a taste of both sides of the town's split personality should check into the classy Gastonian hotel, and head immediately to Vinnie Van Go Go's, the pizza joint�cum�social hub of the City Market district. From there, locals migrate to the live music at Velvet Elvis or Jim Collins's, where the beer is cheap enough to keep you out all night. Jump-start the next morning at Gallery Espresso before walking through every leafy square from River Street to Forsythe Park. Even without a hangover, your eyes will ache to see such beautiful architecture and gardens. As for day two? Rinse, then repeat. -- ANN MARIE GARDNER Details Continental has nonstop flights from Newark (800-525-0280); the Gastonian (doubles from $180; 912-232-2869, gastonian.com); Velvet Elvis (912-236-0665); Vinnie Van Go Go's (912-233-6394); Gallery Espresso (912-233-5348); Jim Collins's Bar (109 Whitaker Street; no phone).       Photograph: Philip Lorca Di Corcia/Art & Commerce Anthology