After years as an executive at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, Moda Operandi’s new fashion director Roopal Patel knows how to parse a whirlwind of a runway shows and multi-layered looks into salient pieces that will sell. She also knows a standout garment when she sees it: That orange bird-embroidered jacket from the tail end of Proenza Schouler (“exquisite — everyone needs to have that jacket”), Alexander Wang’s white fringed pieces (“stunning”), and the structured jacket from Peter Som’s opening look (“beyond chic”), for starters. After a packed schedule of shows this week, we caught up with Patel to find out which New York runway trends she predicts will stick and which runway pieces Moda Operandi’s team is coveting.
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Delicate Florals "Whether it was the English rose prints at Richard Chai or the embroidered leather at Derek Lam, floral prints aren’t going... Delicate Florals "Whether it was the English rose prints at Richard Chai or the embroidered leather at Derek Lam, floral prints aren’t going anywhere. But you saw florals being treated with a much more delicate hand this season.”
Must have: Embroidered leather floral skirt by Derek Lam (right)
Herringbone and Plaid “We returned to menswear-inspired fabrications in herringbone and plaid this season. Derek Lam had an incredible herringbon... Herringbone and Plaid “We returned to menswear-inspired fabrications in herringbone and plaid this season. Derek Lam had an incredible herringbone-printed silk, and you saw a lot of the pattern at Rachel Zoe. The look is a long-sleeved blouse with a chic herringbone or plaid pant.”
Must have: 10 Crosby by Derek Lam pant (left)
Animal Motifs “There were a lot of animal influences this season. Prabal Gurung used the image of a steer throughout his blue series. There were ... Animal Motifs “There were a lot of animal influences this season. Prabal Gurung used the image of a steer throughout his blue series. There were also a lot of animal motifs in knitwear, which was interesting.”
Must have: Steer prints by Prabal Gurung (right)
Chunky Knits "Knitwear was huge this season, but the knits were bigger and the weave was wider. Phillip Lim showed great chunky, two-tone sw... Chunky Knits "Knitwear was huge this season, but the knits were bigger and the weave was wider. Phillip Lim showed great chunky, two-tone sweaters, while Marc Jacobs played with the idea of layering knits over different textures. For fall, it’s this idea of an overexaggerated, chunky piece of knitwear. ”
Must have: Derek Lam ivory chunky knit shell (left)
Leather Separates "Leather seems to be the new uniform for fall 2012 collections; it’s becoming part of the classic core. Everyone has to ha... Leather Separates "Leather seems to be the new uniform for fall 2012 collections; it’s becoming part of the classic core. Everyone has to have that signature leather item: a leather skirt, T-shirt, pant, or jacket. It’s almost becoming its own fabrication. The news in leather this season is coming in the shape of pants or a long skirt. I think Alexander Wang had some of the best interpretations for both leather and patent.”
Must have: Leather pants by Alexander Wang (center)
Burgundy The color palette has shifted quite dramatically: A lot of autumnal tones graced the runway this season, including deep pumpkin shades, ... Burgundy The color palette has shifted quite dramatically: A lot of autumnal tones graced the runway this season, including deep pumpkin shades, forest and hunter green, and an incredible range of burgundy. Burgundy is the standout color of the season, from merlot to claret to bordeaux. You can translate it in so many ways."
Must have: Burgundy heels by Rodarte (center)
Fur "Shearling seems to be a continuing trend, but we saw it being treated in innovative ways at J. Mendel and Bibhu Mohapatra. Fur isn’t go... Fur "Shearling seems to be a continuing trend, but we saw it being treated in innovative ways at J. Mendel and Bibhu Mohapatra. Fur isn’t going anywhere, whether it’s a fur topper or a standout bag, like the antelope clutch from Proenza Schouler.”
Must have: Antelope bag by Proenza Schouler (center)
Tailored Jackets "The jacket was very strong across all categories, price points, and designers. Peter Som’s version was a little more sculp... Tailored Jackets "The jacket was very strong across all categories, price points, and designers. Peter Som’s version was a little more sculpted and tailored — his opening look was beyond chic. Rag & Bone gave us the perfect everyday blazer. And the embroidered chinoiserie jackets at the end of Proenza Schouler were exquisite.”
Must have: Embroidered jacket by Proenza Schouler (center)
Long, Lean Pants “It’s all about the new long and lean proportion — it started with Prabal Gurung and continued to emerge throughout the week. Th... Long, Lean Pants “It’s all about the new long and lean proportion — it started with Prabal Gurung and continued to emerge throughout the week. There was an abundance of skinny pants in stovepipe and cigarette cuts. It’s interesting to see the minimalist return to structure in the form of menswear separates.”
Must have: Skinny pant by Prabal Gurung (left)
Military-inspired Coats and Capes "Jason Wu sent out an army of models in military inspired jackets and capes, and the military peacoats at ... Military-inspired Coats and Capes "Jason Wu sent out an army of models in military inspired jackets and capes, and the military peacoats at Joseph Altuzarra were absolute knockouts. That silhouette — the great military coat paired with a skinny cargo pant and high boot — felt really directional and fresh.”
Must have: Military peacoat by Joseph Altuzarra (right)
Fringe "Fringe seems to be very important this season, from the gypsy fringe at Altuzarra to the evening looks at Alexander Wang. Some of th... Fringe "Fringe seems to be very important this season, from the gypsy fringe at Altuzarra to the evening looks at Alexander Wang. Some of those last exits from Alexander Wang were stunning; expect to see more like them.”
Must have: Fringed dress by Alexander Wang (left)
Gold Eveningwear “For evening, we saw this heavenly, ecclesiastical trend happening, from Marchesa to Prabal. I call it liquid gold — the gowns w... Gold Eveningwear “For evening, we saw this heavenly, ecclesiastical trend happening, from Marchesa to Prabal. I call it liquid gold — the gowns were divine.”
Must have: Gold gown by Prabal Gurung (right)
Stacked High Heel Shaft Boots "In footwear, the look for fall is a stacked high-heel shaft boot. Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, and Alexander ... Stacked High Heel Shaft Boots "In footwear, the look for fall is a stacked high-heel shaft boot. Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, and Alexander Wang all showed incredible versions.”
Must have: Shaft Boot by Proenza Schouler (left)
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