Know Your Stones: 30 Candy-Colored Gems
Photo: Bobby Doherty
For at least half a century, “investing” in a piece of jewelry meant buying a pair of round diamond studs on 47th Street. But these days, it seems like everyone (Gwyneth Paltrow, your ceramist neighbor) is flashing weirder, splashier, more deeply saturated baubles. That these gems look like toys is part of their appeal to a new wave of jewelers — Melissa Joy Manning in Soho, Mociun in Williamsburg, Erica Weiner in Nolita and Boerum Hill — who’ve helped make the industry increasingly less fusty, featuring peach sapphires and Milky Way turquoise rather than the classic rocks. “Nontraditional stones feel like the new frontier in fine jewelry,” says gray-diamond-loving designer Eva Zuckerman. And while staid, white diamonds have been on the decline recently, fine jeweler David Morris told The Wall Street Journal that “colored diamonds have probably been the best investment in the last ten years — better than wine, the stock market, or property.” Here, we break down outrageously pricey spinels, less-expensive-than-they-look tourmalines, and a few chakra-healing crystals that have found a whole new audience amid the SoulCycle set.
*This article appears in the March 23, 2015 issue of New York Magazine.
Blue Diamond Crazy expensive
From: South Africa
Characteristics: hard, shimmery, scarce
Old blue eyes is among the rarest of all colored diamo...
Blue Diamond Crazy expensive
From: South Africa
Characteristics: hard, shimmery, scarce
Old blue eyes is among the rarest of all colored diamonds. “There’s only one significant source for them in the world — the Premier Mine in South Africa,” says Ward Landigran, CEO of Verdura. The stone made headlines in November 2014 when Bunny Mellon’s 9.75-carat version sold at auction for $32.6 million — shattering Sotheby’s high estimate of $15 million. For the other 99.99999 percent, there’s always the Smithsonian, which houses the Hope diamond. Photo: Getty Images
Spinel Crazy expensive
From: Myanmar/Asia
Characteristics: hard, shimmery
No, it’s not a ruby, but the red spinel has long been confused for o...
Spinel Crazy expensive
From: Myanmar/Asia
Characteristics: hard, shimmery
No, it’s not a ruby, but the red spinel has long been confused for one; it’s spinels, not rubies, you see in the British crown jewels, and a 170-carat red spinel adorns the Imperial State Crown of England. There’s been a recent surge in demand for the hyperpigmented stone — “When I started buying spinels in 1996, I could get them for as low as $300 a carat,” says James de Givenchy of Taffin. “Today, they’re more like $10,000.” Photo: Greenwich Jewelers
Lightning Ridge Opal Crazy expensive
From: Australia
Characteristics: scarce
When you think opal, subdued shades of white and green come to mi...
Lightning Ridge Opal Crazy expensive
From: Australia
Characteristics: scarce
When you think opal, subdued shades of white and green come to mind. But the Lightning Ridge, from Down Under, bears a kaleidoscopic swirl of reds, blues, purples, and yellows. “I love working with Lightning Ride opals because of their intense fire,” says jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann. “In 2014, I built an entire collection of sea charms around them. They’ve finally caught on with the luxury consumer.” Photo: Joel Price Opals
Paraiba Tourmaline Crazy expensive
From: South America
Characteristics: scarce
Tourmalines come in many colors, but this Windex-blue vari...
Paraiba Tourmaline Crazy expensive
From: South America
Characteristics: scarce
Tourmalines come in many colors, but this Windex-blue variety is sourced from a mine in Brazil that’s now entirely stripped. Says David Rees, owner of Ten Thousand Things, “Years ago, at the Tucson gem show, we met a guy who looked like Indiana Jones and was holding bundles of Paraiba tourmaline. Today, finding true Paraiba tourmaline is the equivalent of finding a blue diamond.” Have a designer examine the stone to make sure there are no synthetic inclusions. Photo: Greenwich Jewelers
Peach Sapphire Crazy expensive
From: Sri Lanka
Characteristics: hard
These sapphires are gaining in popularity among more low-key consumers lo...
Peach Sapphire Crazy expensive
From: Sri Lanka
Characteristics: hard
These sapphires are gaining in popularity among more low-key consumers looking for a warm-colored stone. “People seem to be liking the color peach across different design fields,” says designer Caitlin Mociun. “I’ve done really well with my custom peach-sapphire pieces lately. And all of the sapphire dealers were showing me peach stones at the last Tucson gem show.” Photo: Greenwich Jewelers
Mandarin Garnet Very expensive
From: Africa
Characteristics: shimmery
Mandarin is among the rarest of garnets. Hailing from northwest Namibia,...
Mandarin Garnet Very expensive
From: Africa
Characteristics: shimmery
Mandarin is among the rarest of garnets. Hailing from northwest Namibia, this juicy variety gained traction in the gemstone trade about ten years ago, making it a newbie in the jewelry world. “I don’t know why they weren’t sought after in the past; they have the most unbelievable color,” says Sylvain Chervin of Carvin French Jewelers. Photo: James Alger Co
Gray Diamond Very expensive
From: Africa
Characteristics: shimmery, hard
This milky, opaque diamond is harder to find than most colored ones —...
Gray Diamond Very expensive
From: Africa
Characteristics: shimmery, hard
This milky, opaque diamond is harder to find than most colored ones — many gray diamonds are actually clear, with a slight metallic-blue tint — but it still costs a lot less than a white diamond. “Lately, we’ve had so many women ask for rings with a center gray diamond,” says jeweler Blanca Monrós Gómez. “They like its understated elegance.” Photo: Diamondenvy
Alexandrite Very expensive
From: Russia/Brazil/Africa
Characteristics: scarce
Named after the Russian tsar Alexander II, alexandrite today app...
Alexandrite Very expensive
From: Russia/Brazil/Africa
Characteristics: scarce
Named after the Russian tsar Alexander II, alexandrite today appears in punky Anita Ko bracelets and Daniela Villegas scorpion rings. Since it displays both red and green tones, the colors of old Imperial Russia, it became the country’s national stone. “Alexandrite is best known for its color change,” says Ko. “In daylight it’s green; in the evening turns to a pinkish red.” Photo: Greenwich Jewelers
Tanzanite Very expensive
From: Africa
A deep-violet stone exclusively from Tanzania, tanzanite was discovered in 1967 near Mount Kilimanjaro. I...
Tanzanite Very expensive
From: Africa
A deep-violet stone exclusively from Tanzania, tanzanite was discovered in 1967 near Mount Kilimanjaro. In 2002, the American Gem Trade Association chose tanzanite as a December birthstone, the first change to the birthstone list since 1912. Says jeweler Irene Neuwirth: “When I saw how it looked paired with opals and emeralds, I became obsessed.” Photo: Greenwich Jewelers
Trapiche Emerald Very expensive
From: South America
Characteristics: hard, scarce
What makes these Colombian emeralds, found deep in the Muzo ...
Trapiche Emerald Very expensive
From: South America
Characteristics: hard, scarce
What makes these Colombian emeralds, found deep in the Muzo and Penas Blancas mines of Colombia, so radiant is their spoked core that resembles the grinding wheel of a sugar mill. “We just got two trapiche emeralds at Tiffany, which was quite a coup for us,” says Melvyn Kirtley, chief gemologist at Tiffany & Co. “You never see them.” Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Demantoid Very expensive
From: Africa/Russia
Characteristics: shimmery
These are some of the most expensive kinds of garnets — their extremely...
Demantoid Very expensive
From: Africa/Russia
Characteristics: shimmery
These are some of the most expensive kinds of garnets — their extremely high refractive index means they emit more sparkle than a diamond. “Our customers often want something very high end and different; we like to show them the demantoid jewelry,” says Elizabeth von der Goltz, senior VP at Bergdorf Goodman. Photo: Soho Gems
Rubellite Very expensive
From: Brazil/USA/Russia
Unlike the red spinel, rubellite has a more saturated, peachy color. And while spinel — i...
Rubellite Very expensive
From: Brazil/USA/Russia
Unlike the red spinel, rubellite has a more saturated, peachy color. And while spinel — its sister stone — can cost upward of $10,000 per carat, rubellite goes for about $300 a carat. It’s a popular, conflict-free alternative to the politically fraught Burmese ruby (currently under embargo by the U.S. government). Photo: Getty Images
Watermelon Tourmaline Very expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
An amalgam of naturally green and pink tones — balancing both the he...
Watermelon Tourmaline Very expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
An amalgam of naturally green and pink tones — balancing both the heart and life-force chakras — this stone has been having a moment for the past few seasons among young designers like Erica Weiner, who loves its groovy history: Watermelon tourmaline was discovered in huge amounts in the early ’70s in Maine, where it became the state stone. Photo: Gems Courtesy of Soho Gems
Milky Way Turquoise Very expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: scarce
Most of the turquoise you see these days is a cookie-cutter shade of robi...
Milky Way Turquoise Very expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: scarce
Most of the turquoise you see these days is a cookie-cutter shade of robin’s-egg blue. Milky Way, on the other hand, is shot through with rare shades of yellow, inky blues, and black. Just beware of fakes, notes designer Melissa Joy Manning, who suggests double-checking for webbing and matrix patterns, which are much harder to fake than color. Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Black Diamond Very expensive
From: Africa
Characteristics: shimmery, hard
Designers have reconsidered this moody stone in recent years, especi...
Black Diamond Very expensive
From: Africa
Characteristics: shimmery, hard
Designers have reconsidered this moody stone in recent years, especially after Big gave Carrie one at the end of Sex and the City 2. Leigh Batnick Plessner, lead buyer at Catbird, says: “We love how sparkly and affordable black diamonds are. We’ll sell one-carat black diamond rings for $6,995; the exact same ring with a white diamond is $16,150.” Photo: Diamondenvy
Morganite Not so expensive
From: Brazil/USA
Characteristics: shimmery
Named after J.P. Morgan in 1911, this gem has benefited from the r...
Morganite Not so expensive
From: Brazil/USA
Characteristics: shimmery
Named after J.P. Morgan in 1911, this gem has benefited from the recent popularity of rose gold, which Soho Gems’ Irina Ferry says “brings out the stone’s natural pink tones,” ranging from salmon to violet pink. “It’s become really popular in the past year for budget-conscious engagement rings,” says Ferry. Photo: Gems Courtesy of Soho Gems
Druzy Not so expensive
From; Brazil
Characteristics: shimmery
This stone has a glittering effect created by tiny crystals on top of a colorful...
Druzy Not so expensive
From; Brazil
Characteristics: shimmery
This stone has a glittering effect created by tiny crystals on top of a colorful mineral. Though they’re not as expensive as big faceted gemstones, druzys can easily be cut into various shapes. “I do pop-up jewelry shows all over Los Angeles, and druzys are everywhere,” says Tancie Trail, owner of e-shop Huntress New York. “They look unreal.” Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Labradorite Not so expensive
From: Canada
Characteristics: spiritual
Labradorite’s many shades of iridescent blue naturally complement most ge...
Labradorite Not so expensive
From: Canada
Characteristics: spiritual
Labradorite’s many shades of iridescent blue naturally complement most gemstones. Legend has it that the Inuit people of Canada, where the stone originates, called it frozen fire. “I recently created a custom necklace for a client using aquamarine, opal, and emerald and wove in labradorite; it really enhanced the other colors,” says Lulu Frost owner Lisa Salzer. Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Moonstone Not so expensive
From: Sri Lanka
Characteristics: shimmery
Moonstone owes its name to the optical phenomenon of “adularescence,” whi...
Moonstone Not so expensive
From: Sri Lanka
Characteristics: shimmery
Moonstone owes its name to the optical phenomenon of “adularescence,” which produces a glimmering effect. “In recent years, I’ve seen celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon, Jennifer Garner, and Miranda Kerr all wearing moonstones,” says Laura Freedman, owner of the bicoastal Broken English. “They have this neutral, soft shimmer.” Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Blue Zircon Not so expensive
From: Asia
Characteristics: shimmery
Of all the gems in the world, this one most closely resembles a diamond. But...
Blue Zircon Not so expensive
From: Asia
Characteristics: shimmery
Of all the gems in the world, this one most closely resembles a diamond. But rest assured, it’s not the lab-grown imitation we know as cubic zirconia. “It’s a natural gem with great beauty and value,” says Jennifer Gandia of Greenwich Jewelers. “I love how the warmth of yellow gold contrasts with the rich, fiery blue-green hue of the gem.” Photo: Greenwich Jewelers
Blue Topaz Not so expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: shimmery
You may have seen this stone in your grandma’s jewelry drawer, but this old-sc...
Blue Topaz Not so expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: shimmery
You may have seen this stone in your grandma’s jewelry drawer, but this old-school bling (also the state gem of Texas) is currently a top-selling colored stone in America. And if you want to turn a piece of heirloom topaz into something more modern, consider taking it to Irina Ferry at Soho Gem: “We can make it into a pendant to wear close to your heart.” Photo: Getty Images
Citrine Not so expensive
From: Madagascar
Characteristics: hard
Though the name suggests a citrus shade, this stone is actually more golden th...
Citrine Not so expensive
From: Madagascar
Characteristics: hard
Though the name suggests a citrus shade, this stone is actually more golden than lemon. It’s a seven on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness (diamonds, a ten on the scale, are the hardest stones on Earth). Because citrine can handle everyday dinging but is a fraction of the cost of diamonds, it’s well-suited for a statement-making cocktail ring. Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Tiger’s-eye Not so expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
You may have noticed your neighbor with the man bun rocking tiger’s-eye cuff...
Tiger’s-eye Not so expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
You may have noticed your neighbor with the man bun rocking tiger’s-eye cuff links lately. “A lot of men are drawn to tiger’s-eye,” notes Lisa Levine, owner of Maha Rose Center for Healing. “I think the stone reminds them of rock collections they had as little boys. Or maybe they have a little bit of Harry Potter in them.” Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Oregon Sunstone Not so expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: shimmery
The official state gemstone since 1987, the sunstone typically has an une...
Oregon Sunstone Not so expensive
From: USA
Characteristics: shimmery
The official state gemstone since 1987, the sunstone typically has an uneven red color distribution that creates an ombre effect of orange, copper, and Champagne. The stones are found in the Dust Devil and Sunset Butte mines, about five hours outside Portland. “Oregon sunstone is gaining in traction because of its U.S.-grown provenance,” says Weiner. Photo: Rogue Gems, LLC
Pyrite Not so expensive
From: Peru/Spain/USA
Characteristics: shimmery
Once the stuff of your hippie aunt’s wrap bracelets, pyrite is being us...
Pyrite Not so expensive
From: Peru/Spain/USA
Characteristics: shimmery
Once the stuff of your hippie aunt’s wrap bracelets, pyrite is being used in more futuristic ways lately (see Pamela Love’s recent collaboration with Swedish label Rodebjer). The mineral’s metallic luster and pale-brass color give it a superficial resemblance to gold, hence its nickname of “fool’s gold.” “The natural texture lends itself to edgier jewelry,” says Love. Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Rose Quartz Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
Half of Greenpoint is carrying this so-called love stone in their pockets. As Levine ...
Rose Quartz Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
Half of Greenpoint is carrying this so-called love stone in their pockets. As Levine explains it, “Rose quartz is the stone for anyone who’s nursing a broken heart or looking for love.” Or, if you’re Victoria Beckham, you supposedly use it backstage at fashion shows to feel balanced.
From $7 at Maha Rose Center for Healing; 718-757-2758. Photo: Maha Rose Center for Healing
Herkimer Diamond Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: hard, spiritual
Known for clarity, hardness, and 18 facets — and found only in Herkimer Co...
Herkimer Diamond Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: hard, spiritual
Known for clarity, hardness, and 18 facets — and found only in Herkimer County, New York — these crystals (not actual diamonds) are said to have strong energy (and vibrate when someone is being dishonest), perhaps because their source is so close. The hyperlocal factor is a hit everywhere from healing centers to Barneys counters.
From $16 at Maha Rose Center for Healing. Photo: Melissa Joy Manning
Smoky Quartz Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
As New Yorkers seek more holistic ways to chill out, smoky quartz has gained appeal....
Smoky Quartz Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
As New Yorkers seek more holistic ways to chill out, smoky quartz has gained appeal. “My clientele ranges from social workers to corporate execs to actors to designers,” says Krista Mitchell of Rock Whisperer NYC. “What they all have in common is anxiety — and my prescription is smoky quartz.”
From $3 at Namaste Bookshop; 212-645-0141. Photo: Maha Rose Center for Healing
Clear Quartz Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
“Clear quartz’s energy is like a laser beam,” says Mitchell. “It’s great if you need...
Clear Quartz Crystal
From: USA
Characteristics: spiritual
“Clear quartz’s energy is like a laser beam,” says Mitchell. “It’s great if you need to focus.” It’s also a bit of a gateway stone, according to Levine: “It’s these young women who’ve done yoga and meditation and now are ready for next-level energetics.”
From $1 at Rock Star Crystals; 212-675-3065. Photo: Maha Rose Center for Healing
Black Obsidian Crystal
From: Mexico
Characteristics: spiritual
On Game of Thrones, this stone is called “dragonglass.” In real life, new busin...
Black Obsidian Crystal
From: Mexico
Characteristics: spiritual
On Game of Thrones, this stone is called “dragonglass.” In real life, new business owners use it to protect against harmful outside energy. Says Tancie Trail: “A friend just gave me a piece of black obsidian to celebrate the launch of my store in L.A. The idea was to attract positive people and experiences to my business.”
From $4 at Stick, Stone & Bone, 111 Christopher St., nr. Bedford St.; 212-807-7024. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
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