The 20 Best Looks by Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein
Photo: Imaxtree, Getty Images
Outgoing Calvin Klein Collection designer Francisco Costa gave the world some memorable red-carpet moments, but his work looked just as good on the runway. Having spent over 12 years helming the brand (he took the reigns back in 2003), Costa was committed to honoring the minimalism Calvin Klein was known for, and also included his own artistic inspirations, sporty inclinations, and ideas for feminine silhouettes into his collections. Click ahead to see our 20 favorite looks from Costa’s Calvin Klein.
Spring 2004 Costa's debut outing for Calvin Klein was a mix of sportswear and evening options done in neutral, makeuplike shades of bronze, beige...
Spring 2004 Costa's debut outing for Calvin Klein was a mix of sportswear and evening options done in neutral, makeuplike shades of bronze, beige, brown, and a little pink. The classic Klein slip dress, here with more texture from the hand of Costa, was a minimal marriage between architectural origami and lingerie, an idea that Costa would continue to play with throughout his tenure at the house.
Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris
Spring 2006 In his spring collections, Costa started to earn recognition for his work's lightness and feminine, airy shapes. Spring's 2006 show w...
Spring 2006 In his spring collections, Costa started to earn recognition for his work's lightness and feminine, airy shapes. Spring's 2006 show was one of his prettiest ever. Sensual empire-waist silhouettes, chiffon that curved around the body, and simple slicked-back hair signified that minimalism was still sexy. A stand-out dress, modeled by Gemma Ward, was simple and airy in black with circles that took the form of ruffles at the hem.
Photo: Fernanda Calfat/2005 Getty Images
Fall 2006 Delicate chiffon dresses were the stars of Costa's Fall 2006 show. They came in bold reds, sheer and sexy and perfect for red-carpet st...
Fall 2006 Delicate chiffon dresses were the stars of Costa's Fall 2006 show. They came in bold reds, sheer and sexy and perfect for red-carpet starlets, as well as in jet black with embroidered herringbone details and spangly bugle beads.
Photo: Thomas Concordia
Fall 2007 Costa was an expert at creating great big coats for lush self-swaddling, like this shearling topper in chocolate.
Photo: Randy Brooke
Spring 2008 The palettes of Costa's collections were typically rooted in neutrals, black, and white, so when he did color, the fashion world took...
Spring 2008 The palettes of Costa's collections were typically rooted in neutrals, black, and white, so when he did color, the fashion world took notice. The easy, silk T-shirt dresses of Spring 2008 were stunning in icy shades of aquamarine, blue, and green.
Photo: Catwalking.com/Catwalking.com
Fall 2008 Costa explored various silhouettes with his tailoring, often celebrating boxy shapes that skewed more masculine, though, he liked to pe...
Fall 2008 Costa explored various silhouettes with his tailoring, often celebrating boxy shapes that skewed more masculine, though, he liked to peel back layers to clue the audiences in to the female form beneath. This coat with cutaway lapels reveals a sheer, form-fitting knit.
Photo: Randy Brooke
Fall 2009 His collections were often described as "architectural" and "asymmetric," and Costa played with technology and text...
Fall 2009 His collections were often described as "architectural" and "asymmetric," and Costa played with technology and textures as a way to enhance a fabric rather than to sloppily overstyle a look. This crinkled, citron velvet dress, which almost looked like old upholstery, was laser-cut to create its rich texture.
Photo: Fernanda Calfat/2009 Getty Images
Spring 2010 Textures and lightness were ideas Costa revisited in 2010. His spring outing featured puckered sheer silks in earthy tones, like this...
Spring 2010 Textures and lightness were ideas Costa revisited in 2010. His spring outing featured puckered sheer silks in earthy tones, like this shimmery mini-dress worn over a puff-sleeve layer underneath.
Photo: Fernanda Calfat/2009 Getty Images
Spring 2011 The opening look of the Spring 2011 show was an example of Costa's restraint. A simple, chic, ivory halter dress in a modern midi len...
Spring 2011 The opening look of the Spring 2011 show was an example of Costa's restraint. A simple, chic, ivory halter dress in a modern midi length would have skewed sporty if not for the quiet, feminine ribbon tied at the waist — a reminder of the elegance in simplicity.
Photo: Fernanda Calfat/2010 Getty Images
Spring 2012 One of Costa's more pared-down, beautiful collections was 2012's spring. In a nod to his first collection for the house, he once agai...
Spring 2012 One of Costa's more pared-down, beautiful collections was 2012's spring. In a nod to his first collection for the house, he once again created slip dresses in nudes and other barely-there shades. This time, they were less fussy, more elegant, and very sensual — leaving very little to the imagination, but in a sophisticated manner.
Photo: Randy Brooke/2011 Randy Brooke
Fall 2012 All eyes were on the waist at his 2012 Fall show, where belts cinched coats and dresses into ultra-feminine shapes. This red coat, belt...
Fall 2012 All eyes were on the waist at his 2012 Fall show, where belts cinched coats and dresses into ultra-feminine shapes. This red coat, belted until it skirted out, was sensual without having to show much skin.
Photo: Peter Michael Dills/2012 Getty Images
Spring 2013 Spring 2013 was all about curves, with molded bodices and corsetlike detailing speaking volumes on the runway. The finale looks were ...
Spring 2013 Spring 2013 was all about curves, with molded bodices and corsetlike detailing speaking volumes on the runway. The finale looks were most memorable, with exaggerated sweetheart necklines held in place between a sheer panel and a molded gold frame.
Photo: Karl Prouse/Catwalking/2012 Catwalking
Fall 2013 Military details inspired the fall 2013 show, where heavy woolen fabrics, strong shoulders and thick heavy belts dominated. It was a po...
Fall 2013 Military details inspired the fall 2013 show, where heavy woolen fabrics, strong shoulders and thick heavy belts dominated. It was a powerful mood on the runway, where even a stripped-down strapless crop top felt strong.
Photo: Imaxtree
Spring 2014 You can see the budding influence here of yarns, threads, and artisan craftwork; the edges are frayed and less exact. This dress, wor...
Spring 2014 You can see the budding influence here of yarns, threads, and artisan craftwork; the edges are frayed and less exact. This dress, worn by Costa regular Julia Nobis, swished down the runway with deconstructed precision.
Photo: Imaxtree
Prefall 2014 A cozy, lilac faux-fur coat from the even cozier Prefall show (there were robe coats and slipper-style shoes) was one of our favorit...
Prefall 2014 A cozy, lilac faux-fur coat from the even cozier Prefall show (there were robe coats and slipper-style shoes) was one of our favorite looks by Costa, and was even bait for a rowdier clientele: Miley Cyrus wore the coat to a pre-Grammy party.
Photo: Imaxtree
Fall 2014 Costa let his craftier side loose in this knitwear-heavy outing. Hand-stiched sweaters comprising various wools and textures stood out ...
Fall 2014 Costa let his craftier side loose in this knitwear-heavy outing. Hand-stiched sweaters comprising various wools and textures stood out strongest, and the heavy pony-hair boots with metal lace-ups were a memorable editorial shoe that season.
Photo: Imaxtree
Spring 2015 With a soundtrack from the Velvet Underground pulsing through the show space, Costa's Spring heroines had thrown the lightness he had...
Spring 2015 With a soundtrack from the Velvet Underground pulsing through the show space, Costa's Spring heroines had thrown the lightness he had been known for right out the door. That is not to say it didnt work. Moody leathers, in studded mini-dress form or endless leather boots, were the core of the collection and they were paired with sweeper coats and this nubby lacquer-red peacoat. Groovy.
Photo: Imaxtree
Spring 2016 Grunge was alive and well at Costa's final spring outing for the brand. Languid slip dresses were shown with ripped knitwear, hems co...
Spring 2016 Grunge was alive and well at Costa's final spring outing for the brand. Languid slip dresses were shown with ripped knitwear, hems come undone, and sneakers with frayed details. Body chains, sequins, and a rare print (a moody floral) made for a feminine pileup that worked. The slip dresses were bait for a woman seeking a bit of nostaglia in her closet, or a potentially cooler-than-thou bride.
Photo: Imaxtree
Prefall 2016 Really, was there ever a more perfect camel coat?
Photo: imaxtree
Fall 2016 In the most recent runway show, there were animal motifs, stones embedded into dress forms, and deconstructed suiting — a little bit of...
Fall 2016 In the most recent runway show, there were animal motifs, stones embedded into dress forms, and deconstructed suiting — a little bit of something for everyone. The mixed plaids, however, will be remembered best, specifically this look with its great furry lapels. In masculine checks and graphic color combinations (black and white, periwinkle), there are nods to old Costa tropes like menswear influences, outerwear, and languid forms.
Photo: Imaxtree
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