Like fruitcake, the pumpkin pie does not lack for detractors. Some complain of a bouncy texture, others of an overwhelming winter-spice flavor profile. Lady M Cake Boutique has a solution: the admittedly pricy but sublime Pumpkin Nuage ($70), a subtly spiced version with a graham-cracker crust and just a smidgen of cream cheese. Available through October, by preorder thereafter. 41 E. 79th St., nr. Madison Ave.; 212-452-2222.