The Urbanist’s Paris

Paris at Twilight: On the Quai des Orfevres, April 8.Photo: Gueorgui Pinkhassov

In some ways, Paris is ­remarkably like New York at the moment. Rents are forcing middle-class residents to contemplate living beyond the Périphérique. Bikes are big, as is talk of pedestrianizing routes, such as along the Seine. And much as the past decade has seen the rise of the hipster in New York, Paris has cultivated its Gallic counterpart with the bobo ­(bourgeois-bohemian). Still, life flows more sedately here. “A restaurant opens every week in New York. Here it’s more like every month,” says private-tour guide Richard ­Nahem of blog eyepreferparis.com. And almost all of the big urban projects—like the redo of the reviled Les Halles mall—won’t bear fruit for a few years. Unlike Bloomberg, gay socialist Bertrand Delanoë, mayor for more than ten years, enjoys high approval ratings. President Nicolas Sarkozy: not so much. Some left-of-­center Parisians are dismayed by his attempts to seduce voters, ahead of the 2012 election, with the new face-veil ban, though they’re even more dismayed by Marine Le Pen.

Two In-Demand Neighborhoods
Three Places Parisians Try to Get Into (And Where to Go Instead)
The Hospitality Report
Martin Parr’s Goutte d’Or Portraits
An Illustrated Guide to Les Bobos
People Parisians Are Talking About
What They’re Wearing
The New Slang
Where to Find Pho and Romazava
The Return of Fancy French Food
The Best Gay Bars
The Best Baguettes in Town
Also: The Look Book Goes to Paris

Reported by Tim Murphy; Additional reporting by Adam Graham

The Urbanist’s Paris