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Earlier this month, we grieved the discontinuation of one of our favorite toners on the market: Biologique Recherche’s P50 1970 exfoliating toner. It is being pulled off shelves because of one of its key ingredients, phenol, an antiseptic that’s been in the product since it launched in 1970. New FDA regulations now prohibit the ingredient. Now that we’ve sat with the news for some weeks, let’s process it and also learn about some proper replacements.
P50 1970 is being discontinued. Is it still safe to use?
If you already have P50 1970, it’s fine to continue using until your bottles expire. Aesthetician and founder of the beloved Rescue Spa, Danuta Mieloch, prides herself on introducing a lot of her clients to P50 1970 for the past 20 years. The toner became one of the spa’s best-selling products. “I am the toner queen; I’ve always used a toner, because to me it was like the additional step after cleansing, to get all the gunk out and prep the skin for the next step,” Mieloch tells the Cut. What made P50 1970 different for her was how effective it was, especially for people with enlarged pores and acne-prone skin. Mieloch also adds that antiseptics are an active ingredient in products like Carmex lip balm, and Listerine contains phenolic compounds. So, while it’s being regulated by the FDA, there are no sudden changes that would cause any harm to the skin if the toner has been a regular product in your routine.
Mieloch sees the discontinuation of the toner as a simple sign of the times changing and evolving. “We don’t drive the old cars anymore; the times change. The first time I was introduced to acids, it was in a solution from Estée Lauder. It was like a gel, with fruit acids, and it was revolutionary, and nobody uses that anymore,” she says.
How long do I have to restock before it’s gone?
The product is still on shelves; the last shipment was sent to the U.S. this January, so whatever is left is all we have to shop until it’s gone. At Rescue Spa, Mieloch says the larger size (8.4 ounce) started running out as soon as the news hit. “There’s more online than in the store. In the store, we only have smaller sizes and travel sizes,” she notes. Overall, there are a few thousand left that she expects to last over the next few weeks, including the 8.4 ounce on the website.
At Paul Labrecque Spa, another spa known to carry Biologique Recherche, its website home screen reminds clients to restock the popular toner before it’s gone (yes, it’s that serious). The largest size (8.4 ounce) is already out of stock, but the 5.1 ounce and 1.7 ounce are still in stock, and the site notes that the expiration date on the 5.1 is January 2028. At Bergdorf Goodman, the product is already gone and sold out. But the store still has all other P50 toners sans phenol stocked.
Once it’s gone for good, what else can I use for similar results?
In a statement from Biologique Recherche provided to the Cut, the Paris-based brand said, “The P50 1970 and P50V 1970 lotions are not marketed anymore, due to realignment regarding worldwide existing and evolving practices and regulations. Other iconic P50 lotions of the brand (P50, P50W, P50V, P50 PIGM 400, Lotion P50 Capillaire 6, Lotion P50 Body) remain available in all markets.”
If she had to choose, Mieloch would go with the P50W lotion because it contains only lactic acid. It’s gentler, especially for people who are more sensitive to salicylic acid, like darker skin tones, which she always recommends P50 PIGM 400 for because it has horseradish extract that targets brightening and pigmentation. She recommends toners with fruit acids, AHAs, and PHAs because they “all remain the best in the form of a toner because the texture is thinner and it penetrates the skin better.” She also recommends her special technique of lifting, sweeping, and tapping product into your skin versus just spraying these acids on without really working them in. Here, some toners you could swap out for your beloved P50 1970.
Mieloch’s texture tonic. An exfoliating toner with a combination of acids, including glycolic, lactic, and polyhydroxy, so both an AHA and PHA can be used on sensitive skin while treating breakouts and pigmentation. It’s highly concentrated with a total of 15 percent acids.
Another beloved Biologique Recherche P50W lotion: This option is for sensitive skin, to gently exfoliate while still purifying the skin and getting rid of any extra gunk.
The best option for darker skin tones, it’s for brightening the skin and targeting hyperpigmentation.
Another option Mieloch recommends is Forlle’d Hyalogy Platinum Lotion. The Japanese formula is more like an essence than a toner, but it targets hyperpigmentation and blemishes caused by inflammation. It also boosts the effectiveness of serums and other skin-care products applied.
Erno Laszlo has been around so long that it was one of Marilyn Monroe’s go-tos. This toner is a bit more potent, as it contains cosmetic-grade alcohol, but it is not the best for sensitive skin. Blended with glycerin, it clarifies the skin, removing oil and any impurities.
M-61’s toner is formulated with salicylic acid, so it may not be the best option for darker skin tones. It targets the texture of the skin, promoting a clearer complexion with glycolic acid and bilberry extract for a more even skin tone. Aloe, lavender, and peppermint are also in the formula to cool the skin while also soothing it.
This blend of lactic, azelaic, and tranexamic acids gently exfoliates and unclogs pores. With other ingredients like rice water and colloidal oatmeal, the milky textured toner also brings a soft radiance and dewiness to the skin.
This is more of an essence than a toner, but it’s made with a powerful blend of fruit acids including white mulberry fruit and caviar lime to brighten the skin. It also has white willow bark and lemongrass to improve skin tone. It promises a more radiant complexion.
