Restaurant Review Archive

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Restaurant Review Archive

May 26, 2003
Little Mermaid

The Mermaid Inn is an elegant East Village bistro swimming with fresh, unfussy seafood.

May 5, 2003
Space Odyssey

What’s in a room? Yujin’s overwrought décor mirrors its no-holds-barred menu, while Rocco DiSpirito has turned a bull-market dining hall into a tribute to home cooking.

May 5, 2003
The Gaul of It

Don’t take out your anti-French sentiment on the city’s chefs and restaurateurs. You aren’t making a political statement; you’re weaseling out of a true New York pleasure.

April 28, 2003
Protein Power

With Ola, Nuevo Latino king Douglas Rodriguez (Patria, Chicama, Pipa) gives the Atkins diet a south-of-the-equator twist. The results? Muy bien, indeed.

April 21, 2003
Torta Reform

Amid the new crop of Brooklyn bistros and Manhattan spinoffs, a modest Mexican café makes a spicy name for itself with home cooking and red-hot tamales.

April 7, 2003
International Set

Barbalùc is a Eurotrash joint masquerading as a temple to Friulian cuisine; Brasserie 360 is both French bistro and sushi bar. Welcome to the new world order.

March 31, 2003
Island Time

Lamu—named for an island off the coast of Kenya—is African only in name. But maybe an exotic moniker is exotic enough.

March 24, 2003
Fast Boat to China

Traveling at the speed of light between his many culinary outposts, Jean-Georges Vongerichten has outdone himself again with the succulent new Chinese-themed 66.

March 17, 2003
Good Neighbor

Cafe Asean’s upscale sister, Jefferson, is a welcome addition to the block. Just don’t call it Asian fusion.

March 10, 2003
Griddle Me This

The controversial thin-crust pies at Otto might irk the pizza police, but they suit us just fine.