The scenes that photographer Cathleen Naundorf concocts to photograph couture are so atmospheric, at first glance, they appear to be images of holiday window displays. Paired with the hazy saturation of Polaroid film, the effect is altogether dreamlike — and given the surreal amount of labor goes into making a couture garment, entirely fitting.
Naundorf was born in the same small German town the legendary Vogue photographer Horst P. Horst, a contemporary of Irving Penn and Cecil Beaton. After she called Horst one day out of the blue to tell him so, he became her mentor, and they spoke everyday on the phone for years. While Naundorf has also done her share of photojournalism, her fashion photos show Horst’s influence most clearly, using light to make her images almost sculptural. You can see a selection for yourself next week at Edwynn Houk Gallery, which is also Naundorf’s first show in New York. Click through the slideshow for a preview of those Polaroids, featuring full-scale gowns by Dior and Elie Saab and custom hats by Philip Treacy.
“Cathleen Naundorf” is on display at the Edwynn Houk Gallery in New York City from January 14 through February 27.
La fille en plâtre VIII
Summer 2007 Dior. Gelatin silver print, 2009.
L’arche de Noé XVIII
Summer 2012 Dior. Color-print from original Polaroid, 2012.
L’arche de Noé XXXV
Winter 2015 Elie Saab. Color-print from original polaroid, 2014.
L’arche de Noé XXXIII
Summer 2014 Elie Saab. 2014.
Kew Gardens
Hat by Philip Treacy and lingerie by Cadolle at Kew Gardens, London. Color-print from original Polaroid, 2009.
My Little Darling
Winter 2006 Dior at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris. Color-print from original Polaroid, 2009.
4pm in London
Hat by Philip Treacy and lingerie by Cadolle in Kensington, London. Color-print from original Polaroid, 2009.
La fille en plâtre VIII
Summer 2007 Dior in Les ateliers du style, Paris. Gelatin silver print, 2009.
La parisienne III
Winter 2009 Dior at Naundorf’s studio on rue Manin, Paris. Gelatin silver print, 2010.
Valentino en rose
Winter 2007 Valentino in cité jandelle, Paris. Gelatin silver print, 2007.