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On the runways of New York Fashion Week, I kept noticing one thing: Basic beanies were a hat of the past. In their place? Various little hats in different shapes and sizes that functioned as a practical accessory for winter outfits and as a source of inspiration, reminiscence, and elevation.
It started at Maria McManus, my first salon-leaning show of New York Fashion Week, where I saw oversize fluffy beanies and cat-ear caps. Then I spotted one on Laura Reilly, writer of the newsletter Magasin. She wore a structured cream The Row hat that became the star of every sidewalk shot. “I’m at a place now where if I see a trend approaching, I’ll just let it pass,” says Reilly. “But what we’re experiencing with hats feels less like a transient wave and more like the Jumanji-ing of a whole dormant category.” Throughout the week, I saw a knitted swim cap at Fforme, a woven pillbox hat at Altuzarra, a furry aviator-style hat at Kim Shui, and gothic iterations resembling bird nests at Thom Browne.
However, this isn’t an untouched trend — it’s more of a visitation to what was. Renaissance-era Baroque hats featured ostrich feathers, ruffles, and patterned brocade fit for a noblewoman. Jacqueline Kennedy is still idolized for her style, including the signature pillbox hats Halston designed. Hip-hop mogul Jay-Z was known for his floppy mink hats in the ’90s, while Andre Leon Talley often blocked those seated in the second row with his suede bucket hats and oversize rabbit caps.
Luckily for those embracing the never-ending quest of “discovering personal style,” this isn’t a trend that will reroute your entire wardrobe. Instead, it’s the ideal way to dip your toes in and experiment with playful accessories. Simply take a page from the fall ’24 runway looks. Below are reworked beanies with flair, modernized berets, swim-inspired caps, and pillbox hats that boast an air of sophistication.
The Modern Beanie
While there are still plenty of beanies in basic hues and pared-back shapes, today’s favorites have stand-out features that can add a twist to any look. For example: Nicholas K’s twisted wrap beanie with its ties and cashmere fabric and Corridor’s intricate option with a ribbed brim.
The Updated Beret
When wearing one of these updated berets, you won’t hear any Emily in Paris jokes. Margiela’s is crafted from brushed wool in a floppier shape. Dior’s takes an artistic approach with a tonal bow and the house’s hallmark B. For a classic, look no further than & Other Stories.
Pillbox Hats, Reimagined
A pillbox hat has a flat crown, upright sides, and no brim, but the modern styles add their twist. Look at Gigi Burris’s — it has a grosgrain ribbon and a wide cuff. To steal Laura’s look, opt for The Row’s felted wool cap, which is both newsboy and pillbox style.
Swimcap Inspired
At Fforme, the beanies were so contoured they resembled swim caps, especially when paired with oval sunglasses. To achieve the look, pick a beanie with minimal details and a snug fit.
