Less than two years after joining the label, Sabato de Sarno is parting ways with Gucci. Further, de Sarno has seemingly already staged his last collection for the Italian fashion giant. In a Thursday morning press release, the house revealed that the forthcoming fall line, showing in Milan on February 25, will be presented by the Gucci design office. The statement noted a new artistic direction would be “announced in due time.”
In the press release, Gucci’s CEO Stefano Cantino wrote, “I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honored Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.”
De Sarno’s vision for Gucci centered on melding the past with the present, infusing the house’s heritage and tradition into modern silhouettes and concepts. His calling card became that shade of Ancora red: deep, dark, and rich. The announcement comes as a surprise, and just days after Kim Jones announced his exit from Dior Homme (other designers currently without a post include Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, formerly of Proenza Schouler; Jeremy Scott, formerly of Moschino; Pierpaolo Piccioli, formerly of Valentino; Hedi Slimane, formerly of Celine; and John Galliano, formerly of Maison Margiela). But with Gucci in transition under new leadership (Cantino took over the top slot at the brand from Jean-François Palus in January) and, according to WWD, sales down 25 percent in the third quarter, the brand is allegedly pursuing an “elevation” strategy.
Prior to de Sarno’s departure, he was expected to stage his second cruise collection with the label in Florence on May 15, an homage to the city where Gucci was founded.